BRESCIA, Italy — Fast cars and expensive watches are the inspiration for Chopard’s latest men’s fragrance, called Chopard Pour Homme.

Racing and timepieces are close to the heart of the famous Swiss jewelry house. Chopard’s fragrance licensee, Coty Prestige, will launch Cho­pard Pour Homme worldwide starting in the fall. Coty Prestige wants to roll the fragrance out to 5,500 doors, with an emphasis on Chopard’s strongest markets of Germany, Italy and the Middle East. Launch details for the U.S. have not yet been confirmed.

Chopard Pour Homme is the company’s second men’s fragrance and it will be marketed as the cornerstone men’s scent in the company’s fragrance portfolio, according to Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele, co-president of Chopard.

“I hope it will be the base of a strong pillar for our men’s fragrances and it will show how we perceive what constitutes a great men’s fragrance,” Gruosi-Scheufele said during a recent interview here.

Though she wouldn’t divulge numbers, Gruosi-Scheufele said the company wanted to grow its fragrance business from 2 percent of the company’s turnover to 5 to 10 percent in the next five years. Industry sources estimate Chopard Pour Homme could generate $40 million in first-year retail sales volume globally.

“It’s a young baby and there is a lot of room to grow,” she said of the fragrance business, “but it should be a very careful expansion. It’s not a question of being overdistributed, but really being well placed in the market and supported by strong advertising campaigns. There’s a lot to be done in terms of getting the fragrance to exist.”

Her sentiments were echoed by Jean Mortier, senior vice president, commercial, for Coty Prestige. He confirmed the company would not expand Chopard Pour Homme’s distribution to new countries, but rather concentrate on complementing Chopard’s existing women’s fragrance distribution.

Both hoped Chopard Pour Homme would achieve the same success Chopard’s women’s scent, Casmir, has enjoyed.

“The first strong fragrance we had, and [which] still has remained a bestseller, is Casmir. I would really hope that we go in that direction again and make the same statement we did with Casmir,” said Gruosi-Scheufele.

Chopard Pour Homme was unveiled at the start of the historic Italian 1,366-kilometer car race Mille Miglia, a rally route from Brescia to Rome and back. Cars participating in the race must have been built between 1927 and 1957. Gruosi-Scheufele and her brother Karl-Friedrich Scheufele competed in the Mille Miglia, and there is reference to the race in the fragrance’s print advertising campaign, shot by photographer Pamela Hanson. The shot depicts Brazilian model Riccardo Dupen jumping into a silver-blue, 1960 Austin Healey. Gruosi-Scheufele said the campaign would bow in September with a heavy investment in worldwide press.

This story first appeared in the July 12, 2006 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

Created by Firmenich nose Thierry Wasser, the fragrance is bolstered by an ingredient the perfumer stumbled upon by accident. On a sourcing trip to the French colonial island of La Reunion, Wasser noticed baskets of bruised red bourbon peppercorns being prepared for incineration; the more pristine quality berry harvest is exported to be used as a spice in cooking. Wasser thought the spice embodied the energy of the Chopard man.

“I was really crazy about the smell of these little berries. It’s rare you have encounters like these with raw materials and I thought they were perfect for expressing that feeling,” explained Wasser. Classified as an amber woody Oriental, Chopard Pour Homme has yuzu, cardamom and star anise as its top notes, an aromatic heart of nutmeg, sage and bourbon pepper, and is rounded out by base notes of tobacco leaves, labdanum and cedarwood.

Wasser said developing Chopard Pour Homme was a quick process as the ingredients fell into place. “It really flows nicely from the top note to the bottom. When they gave me the brief, I translated it as what I would wear today if I was Agnelli in the Eighties, and it worked out just like I imagined,” said Wasser.

While the fragrance’s notes are meant to represent a Chopard man’s personality, the bottle was constructed with the company’s watch-making heritage in mind. Designed by Thierry de Baschmakoff of Esteta, the flacon is fashioned with a grooved, gun-metal gray rectangular cap and blue-tinted heavy glass, and recalls the lines of one of Chopard’s men’s watches.

Chopard Pour Homme will be available in three eaux de toilette; the 75-ml. will retail for 60 euros, or $75 at current exchange, the 50-ml. for 48 euros, or $60, and the 30-ml. for 36 euros, or $45.

Beiersdorf Plans Stock Split
BERLIN — To increase the liquidity of its stock, Beiersdorf is planning a 3-for-1 stock split on July 17, as agreed at the group’s annual general meeting May 17. Beiersdorf said after a capital increase to 252 million euros, or $320 million at current exchange, from retained earnings, the capital stock of Beiersdorf will be divided into 252 million bearer shares with a pro rata value of 1 euro, or $1.27, each. Beiersdorf, which produces Nivea, Eucerin, La Prairie, Juvena, Hansaplast, Tesa and other consumer branded goods, employs about 17,000 people worldwide, and generated sales of $6.1 billion in 2005.

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