Decléor and Carita Names New President
PARIS — Decléor and Carita have named Alain Emprin president, replacing Hervé Lesieur, who has left the firm.

Emprin, whose position became effective on June 2, joined the Shiseido-owned skin care brands from French wine and spirits group Remy Cointreau, where he was managing director.

While this is Emprin’s first time in the beauty industry, he considers there to be plenty of crossover with the spirits business.

“They are both truly global brands,” he said last week. “They are about luxury and status, and also involve services, treatments and protocols.”

Emprin said Decléor and Carita’s sales have been growing in the double digits, and that under his leadership they will continue to target 10 to 15 percent yearly increases.

Industry sources estimate the two brands generated combined sales of 105 million euros, or $134 million at current exchange, in 2005. Future business will be propelled by geographic expansion in the U.S., Germany, China, Japan and Russia, said Emprin.

He and his colleagues see huge potential in the U.S. spa market.

“The U.S. is generating growth of 20 percent in the spa business,” said Carol Ruiz, managing director of Decléor and Carita in the U.S. “There is serious business potential in developing spas as destination resorts and in hair salons expanding into spas. The French heritage of these brands is also very appealing for the American market.”

While remaining loyal to Decléor’s origins as an aromatherapy brand, Emprin acknowledged that innovation is a major driver in the beauty industry. Decléor has developed three major new lines and accompanying treatments to bow later this year.

The 20-year-old brand has created an antiaging face care collection targeting wrinkles, a line for brighter skin and a body care collection for firmness.

Carita, which focuses on antiaging skin care, is launching two new collections: a moisturizing line based on water sourced from lagoons in Polynesia and a whitening collection primarily for the Asian market, where such products represent 25 percent of the skin care category, according to Emprin.

Carita will further roll out its Maison de Beauté concept, which includes a hair salon, spa and gym. “It is more than a brand and products — it’s about enjoying the Carita experience,” said Emprin.

This story first appeared in the June 12, 2006 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

For Emprin, “the road map is crystal clear. It’s about quality and excellence.” He added the pair of brands will continue working with salon owners to make their salons more attractive and to generate growth in the long term.

Emprin also said he plans to establish an e-business for Carita and Decléor within the next six to nine months.
Ellen Groves

Makeup Takes Center Stage at Lancome’s Color Design Awards
PARIS — Beauty stepped out from its usual backstage position at Lancôme’s recent Color Designs awards. It was the finale of an almost yearlong competition.

Fashion students from around the world sent looks down the runway, inspired by the L’Oréal-owned brand’s spring-summer makeup collection at the event last month.

“For once, it is makeup that is inspiring fashion, it is another way of working,” said Marc Dubrule, Lancôme International’s chief executive officer at the time. As reported, Odile Roujol has become managing director and Dubrule, director of strategic development for the beauty giant’s luxury products division.

The judges included Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz, designer Kenzo Takada and model Ines Sastre. “I love it here,” said Takada of the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, where a 700-strong crowd, including Lancôme model Daria Werbowy, attended the event.

Dutch student Dan Gonen snapped up the top award and a check for 20,000 euros, or $25,535 at current exchange, from the selection of 26 budding designers who had already won heats in various countries.

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