Guerlain Reopens at Bergdorf, Unveils Fragrance Trio in U.S.
NEW YORK — Guerlain has reopened its space at Bergdorf Goodman, dubbed La Maison Guerlain after its Paris flagship, while simultaneously introducing its L’Art et la Matières scent trio, as well as baby and home fragrances, in the U.S.

The scents will be available in the U.S. exclusively at Bergdorf’s, where Guerlain recently unveiled its new in-store boutique — an area that’s been moved and enlarged by 80 percent, to 180 square feet. Changes to La Maison Guerlain at Bergdorf’s are designed to highlight a wider product assortment and generate more customer traffic.

“We wanted to create an environment that reflects exclusivity and represents the iconic vision of the brand,” said Linda Maiocco, Guerlain’s vice president of marketing.

Guerlain’s previous space at Bergdorf’s was closed Dec. 26. The new space was opened in mid-February following renovations and officially unveiled two weeks ago. Modeled after La Maison Guerlain, the brand’s Paris flagship — which was refurbished and reopened seven months ago — the space at Bergdorf’s features everything from fragrance drawers along the back wall to special tester units. Even the chandelier is a reflection of the Paris store.

“The entire look of the boutique has changed,” Maiocco said of the Bergdorf’s space. “It represents a modern version of Guerlain, but with a reference to the brand’s past.” This marks the company’s first strategic branding initiative to communicate a modern image of Guerlain in the U.S. market, according to Maiocco. “We want to communicate our story to customers and not just collectors but a younger audience, and explain who we were, who we are and who we’re going to be.”

The L’Art et la Matières fragrance trio includes Rose Barbare, which features notes of Ottoman rose and honey-chypre; Angélique Noire, which has accords of bergamot and vanilla, and Cuir Beluga, which includes notes of mandarin orange, amber, heliotrope and vanilla. The 75-ml. scents, priced at $190 each, are packaged in handmade bottles that feature a gold strip down each side inscribed with the scent’s name.

Francis Kurkdjian, who has joined Takasago, blended Rose Barbare while at Quest International. Givaudan’s Daniela Andrier developed Angelique Noire and Olivier Polge of International Flavors & Fragrances concocted Cuir Beluga. The fragrances target a younger demographic, in a move to modernize the company’s heritage as a classic fragrance house, according to Maiocco.

This story first appeared in the March 7, 2006 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

Guerlain’s baby scent, called Petit Guerlain, was created by Olivia Giancobetti of Iskia. It’s alcohol-free and features notes of orange blossom, seringa, rose, wheat, honey and talcum. The scent comes in a 250-ml. “bee” bottle that can be engraved. The home collection includes four scented candles, $75 each, and two scented soaps sets at $45 for each box of four soaps.

Guerlain plans to open another in-store boutique at Neiman Marcus in San Francisco in June.

Industry sources estimate the Bergdorf’s and Neiman Marcus boutiques could combine to generate roughly $2 million for Guerlain by yearend.

The brand also has slated two in-store boutique openings for next year.
Michelle Edgar

Shiseido Phasing Out Iunx Parfums
PARIS — Shiseido is discontinuing Iunx Parfums, its niche fragrance brand and retailer, a company spokeswoman has confirmed.

The move will involve closing Iunx’s only freestanding boutique on the Rue de l’Universite and its stand in Printemps department store here by March 31. All Iunx’s other European sales points are due to be closed by the end of this year.

Iunx is the second beauty brand to be discontinued by Shiseido in less than a year. In June 2005, Shiseido pulled the plug on the Stephane Marais cosmetics line and store.

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