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Here are some designers in the spotlight at fashion weeks in Mumbai and New Delhi.

Calcutta designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee staged a show in Mumbai that earned acclaim from buyers like Albert Morris from Browns, who bought the collection for the third season in a row, and L.A. trendsetter Tracey Ross, who purchased several pieces that will appear in her namesake boutique this fall. The collection combined voluminous cuts and natural palettes in an earthy, quirky mix and earned Mukherjee a coveted invite from IMG to show during New York Fashion Week in September.

Ana Mika
New Delhi Fashion Week guests who stuck to the runways and skipped the booths missed out on Calcutta’s Anamika Khanna, whose innovative Ana Mika line focuses on eye-catching handmade fabrics and simple silhouettes. “I really wanted to create fabrics that you wouldn’t find anywhere in the world,” said Khanna, whose embroidered and appliquéd designs have been sold in Harrods and Scoop New York. The designer will head to London Fashion Week in September, where she’ll show her collection on the runway for the second consecutive year.

Rajesh Pratap Singh
The eponymous line from New Delhi designer Rajesh Pratap Singh is perhaps the most visible of India’s top labels due to his regular showings at the Tranoi trade show in Paris, where the line has been picked up by Colette. Singh’s standout runway show in New Delhi featured perfect pintucks, easy shapes and exquisite floral appliqués, earning him a standing ovation from Bloomingdale’s Europe vice president, Chantal Rousseau, who said she was planning to order Singh’s men’s and women’s lines.

Ashish N Soni
New Delhi designer Ashish Soni got a taste of international attention last fall when he showed at New York Fashion Week’s UPS stage for young designers. For his first show since New York, Soni kept to a palette of gray, black and white to showcase his crisply tailored designs, including standouts like a short cashmere swing jacket and an exquisitely draped viscose knit dress. Soni plans to follow his New York debut with another show at 7th on Sixth this fall.

This story first appeared in the May 9, 2006 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.