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PARIS — Ever-inventive Karl Lagerfeld, who helped launch fashion’s ongoing girly craze with his candy-colored, beribboned suits, changed direction on Wednesday with the fall couture collection he showed for Chanel. This season, he chose...

PARIS — Ever-inventive Karl Lagerfeld, who helped launch fashion’s ongoing girly craze with his candy-colored, beribboned suits, changed direction on Wednesday with the fall couture collection he showed for Chanel. This season, he chose strength over overt femininity, a change of mood illustrated by authoritatively tailored looks that were doubled-up and layered. Here, his striking dress and jacket in featherweight tweed, worn with a pleated piece. For more on the couture, see the story, “Authoritative Chic and Exuberant Extravagance,” and for more on Chanel’s resurgence, see “Chanel’s Record-Breaking Ride.”

This story first appeared in the July 8, 2004 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.