Bouchra Jarrar couture collection

Back on the couture schedule for the first time since 2016, Bouchra Jarrar has added many au courant elements to her exacting, soigné brand of fashion. Her salon-style show today at her Parisian apartment will feature a diverse cast from ages 18 to 70 — including men. She’s also dusted off some archival styles — a tuxedo suit and a killer leather Perfecto — and will introduce her first logo, her initials writ small on a rock-concert T-shirt.

At an exclusive preview Tuesday, the designer was wearing a mohair cardigan, Adidas track pants and Nike sneakers, and her collection, dubbed Edition No. 1, reflects her relaxed and sanguine spirit, particularly the slouchy pantsuits in languid wool, and a loose, romantic smock in silk. There was still strict tailoring, including handsome trenchcoats a man or woman could wear, and Jarrar’s fetish flourishes of feathers and beads, here as majestic collars to lift the head, there as a flourish on the shoulder of a sleeveless jacket.

She even loosened up her sly bondage references to a knitted scarf crisscrossing the body, or loose straps draping over a scoop-back gown.

Jarrar plans to parade only 15 looks. “I appreciate quality and not quantity,” she said.

Self-financed, the designer has reached out to the dozen or so women who purchased her couture regularly, and she plans to re-enter the business step by step.

Since exiting Lanvin in 2017, Jarrar said she relished the two-year break from fashion’s treadmill to “reconnect” to her family and reflect on the profession. “I needed to feel happy to re-enter my metier,” she said with a sweet smile. “I am proposing the essentials of a woman’s wardrobe.”

Jarrar launched her signature house in 2010 after 15 years of behind-the-scenes toil, most notably as studio director at Nicolas Ghesquière’s Balenciaga and head of couture design for Christian Lacroix. She earned the official haute couture appellation in 2013.

load comments
blog comments powered by Disqus