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Berlin men’s wear designer Jennifer Brachmann continued her neoclassical, or what she prefers to call a “post-classical,” journey for spring 2016. Chosen to inaugurate Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin’s cool new Stage space in the Me Collectors Room Tuesday, Brachmann’s capsule lineup presented masculine staples reworked into a variety of hybrid forms. Her signature frock coat was a prime example, turned into a long shirt jacket in summer light cotton batiste, tinted in minty green and paired with dark green pants, or styled in navy merino wool with matching pants to look wedding-ready.

Pleats played a leading role, providing extra width on the sides, backs or fronts of the lineup’s roomier trousers and shorts, all of which nonetheless remained extremely clean and lean across the rear, or used to create unexpected volume in the backs of jackets. Shirts also shone – literally – in polished cotton or this season’s coated Swiss linen, and took the place of T-shirts in tailored short-sleeve models with seamed chest plackets, incorporating a vest detail or button-tab, or featuring rolled-up safari shirt sleeves.

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