The New York schedule is beyond imposing, shows layered one upon the next like a fashion trend gone mad. Before we’ve had the chance to get tired we’re grousing, our whining as much a part of this and every season as too-tight bench seating and the frenzied rides to Milk. Then the reminders of why you love it start happening.
My first of the season occurred today. After a quite pleasant Richard Chai Love show and some appointments, time for Kimberly Ovitz. Backstage before the show, Kim and her girls, looking beautifully undone, were hanging out, the latter dressed, lined up, ready to go and just waiting for their audience to arrive. Those in the first range of looks wore gauzy whites, long, fluid, with interesting twists, turns, slashes and debts to Yohji and Margiela in view. “I think my girls are really dark,” Ovitz said, “even though there’s a lightness to this collection.” Fashion dark or really dark? “I think both.” The next question, about the reasons for the real darkness, was more than this young woman cared to take on in the moments preceding her first runway show. Fair enough.
Eleven blocks up 10th, young southern gentleman and Central Saint Martins graduate Wes Gordon presented his lineup of interesting, well-executed clothes of the young lady variety. “The idea was of how to make luxury relevant to the girls who are my peers,” he said. “I’m 25.” His solution: a focus on often-embellished pieces — doupioni cardigan, lace-print jumpsuit, guipure top — and “a disregard for whether it’s cocktail or day.”
The light (and sexy) side of darkness at 1 p.m.; young propriety at 2. A world apart aesthetically, but together in looking great.