It’s hard to believe that English fare would fly with the cultivated palates of Paris. But the food at the new English restaurant, Bertie’s, was a hit the other night when Claude Roland, a city councilman, threw a dinner for his friends Sir Christopher Mallaby, the British ambassador, and his wife, Lady Mallaby.

Though the English grub was top class, the wine didn’t arrive until midway through the second course.

“Well, that’s not very English,” said Betty Catroux. “Normally, there are bottles and bottles.”

Her neighbor Eric de Rothschild agreed while he poured sherry into his soup.

During the after-dinner speeches, de Rothschild’s wife, Beatrice, distracted herself by making headdresses and bracelets from the floral centerpieces that had been arranged by Christian Tortu.