LONDON — Burberry is building on the momentum of Burberry Brit with a men’s fragrance that sets out to capture the rumpled elegance and dandyish spirit of the young Mick Jagger.
Brit Burberry for Men, which launches in the U.K. and U.S. in mid-August, will make its official debut at a party at Burberry’s Milan store on June 28, during the men’s wear shows. As reported, the face of the new campaign is British actor — and Oxford graduate — Hugh Dancy, who stars in the upcoming film “King Arthur.”
“We built this fragrance around a man’s personality, rather than a concept,” said Burberry creative director Christopher Bailey during an interview at the company’s headquarters here. “What we had in mind was a guy with a scruffy elegance, sexy, bohemian — but still approachable. We had the young Mick Jagger in mind,” Bailey added, as a recording of the Rolling Stones’ “It’s All Over Now” played in the background.
“There are so many stereotypes of Britishness, like the classic tailored look and the grungy street style,” said Bailey. “But we’ve put Hugh in a tailored suit and given him an old, beat-up trenchcoat that looks like it’s been handed down. We wanted to take ownership of that kind of Englishman, the one who’s a bit peacock, a bit rock ’n’ roll,” he added.
In the print ad, which was shot in black and white by Mario Testino in London, Dancy has that didn’t-come-home-last-night look, complete with tousled curls, an unshaven face — and his trenchcoat on the ground beside him. But this is also a man who loves his brands: He’s wearing Burberry pinstripes and brogues, and he’s posing in front of a 1968 Aston Martin.
Industry sources estimate the new Burberry Brit fragrance, which is made by Inter Parfums, Burberry’s fragrance licensee, will do about $60 million in global retail sales during the first four months, building up to $100 million in 2005. In the U.S., Burberry fragrances are distributed by Cosmopolitan Cosmetics Inc.
Although the company declined to discuss figures, sources estimate that Burberry and Inter Parfums are investing about $30 million in the overall launch of the new scent, with $12 million going toward advertising. Some $6 million of that will be spent in the U.S., and half of that $6 million will go toward media spending.
Advertising will consist of outdoor campaigns such as billboards, bus shelters and kiosks, and ads in such titles as GQ, Vanity Fair, Esquire and Interview. Burberry also is advertising the scent in women’s magazines, including Vogue and Elle.
Fabien Baron was the art director for the campaign and designed the bottle, which is similar to that of Burberry Brit for Women, but darker and more mysterious. The plaid design is there, but this time it’s in shades of black, white and gray. “We wanted something smoky, sexy and tactile,” said Bailey.
In mid-August, the fragrance will be launched in Burberry stores and Bloomingdale’s exclusively, and by yearend will be sold in 1,600 stores across the U.S., including Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Sephora and selected specialty stores.
In the U.K., the fragrance initially will be sold exclusively in Burberry stores and at Selfridges, which plans to wrap all of its windows — there are about 70 — with Burberry Brit imagery.
In September, the fragrance will roll out to Western Europe. In January, Burberry Brit will move into the rest of the world, including Asia, the Middle East and Eastern Europe, for a total of 15,000 doors worldwide.
The fragrance’s top note is made from green mandarin, freshly cut ginger, bergamot and cardamom, while the midrange is a mix of wild roses and cedarwood. The base note is made from oriental wood and gray musk.
“This perfume has a story,” said Antoine Maisondieu, the nose from Givaudan. “I used roses because dandies used to wear them. I knew where they wanted to go with this, and my first thought was that we needed a flower because dandies wore fresh flowers.”
The fragrance comes in 100-ml. and 50-ml. bottles that will cost $78 and $58, respectively, in the U.S. The aftershave costs $45 and the aftershave balm, $38, while the body cleansing gel goes for $28. The cleansing body bar, which has exfoliating properties, costs $22 and the deodorant stick is $22.
Burberry Brit for Women currently generates about 30 percent of all Burberry fragrance sales, according to Marcella Cacci, senior vice president, global licensing. As reported, Burberry Brit for Women has so far generated $122 million, or 100 million euros at current exchange, at retail worldwide. By September, when Burberry Brit for Women will have been out one full year, it is expected to generate $219.6 million, or 180 million euros,
All of the nine Burberry fragrances added together last year generated $400 million at retail, and that figure is expected to rise 25 percent this year to $500 million.