B.A. students at Central Saint Martins’ B.A. students in London let their minds run wild through post-apocalyptic worlds full of biker-gypsy hybrids, lavishly clad shamans, skaters in quilted silk robes and shipwrecked fishermen during the school’s graduate fashion show this week. Silhouettes tended toward the voluminous, including full skirts with a Fifties prom vibe, baggy denim, rough-cut dresses tinkling with chandelier crystals, and oversize sweaters dangling with bunches of yarn and clanging bells — or festooned with what looked like the off-cuts swept from the design room floor.
Thirty-nine students showed their collections at the school’s new campus near King’s Cross Station and the exits ranged from the outlandishly conceptual and slightly terrifying to the delicate and dreamy to the — dare one say it — commercial, as in the lineup of blood-red laser-cut dresses by Jim Chen Hstang Hu.
Among the most compelling looks were Markus Wernitznig’s crinkly foil trousers and velvet dresses in shades of mint, mandarin and raspberry; Han Kim’s otherworldly silhouettes featuring comedic sleeves on dresses — so big they grazed the catwalk — sparkling fairy wings and vampire capes; Louis Pileggi’s bright stripes, checkerboard patterns and fluttery streamers on hemlines and cuffs; Mimi Wade’s slipdresses with Roy Lichtenstein-ish cartoon prints; and Hiroko Masano’s fun plays on proportion, including big Christian Dior New Look-inspired skirts teamed with itsy bitsy Neoprene jackets and shrunken athletic T-shirts.
Other standouts: Jemma Beech’s dresses with their patchwork of pixelated stitching, tulle panels, sequins and long, dramatic fringe — they were busy but still beautiful — and Phoebe Kime’s shiny mosaic-like squares and pom-poms dotted onto tulle or stiff netting, which had an ethereal elegance.