NEW YORK — Not every important collection appears on the runways during the fall show season. Some designers and firms prefer to unveil their offerings in other, more low-key ways. For fall, they’re taking their customer from the streets of Manhattan to the slopes of Aspen and Gstaad, in looks that keep her warm yet cool, from shrunken jackets and vintage-look denim pants to Inuit-influenced fur coats.
RALPH LAUREN BLUE LABEL — Ralph Lauren did what he does best for his Blue Label collection, mixing rugged masculine looks with flirty feminine pieces, in tweaked versions of traditional styles. There were plenty of shrunken blazers paired with beat-up denim pants, floral vintage-style printed skirts, little Fair-Isle sweaters and Shetland wool knits in every color. Among the best items: a Navajo-inspired poncho, the broken-in leather jackets and a princess-line tweed coat with a velvet-detailed collar.
PRADA SPORT — What do you get when you mix high-performance sportswear with high fashion? Prada Sport, of course. The skiwear had a Sixties Mod feeling, with an ode to Courrèges and Pierre Cardin in the form of silver space mountain looks. There were riding jackets and jodhpurs, too, all in stretch cotton with leather trim. The Sport Basic collection, however, featured water-resistant pieces, including belted ski jackets, black-and-white tracksuits and sporty sweaters.
KORS MICHAEL KORS — Michael Kors is staying true to his Kors customer, who’s an uptown girl with a flair for casual cool. That means such pieces as luxe cashmere knits, sharp leather jackets, shrunken techno sateen bomber jackets with coyote trim, along with a satin-trimmed flannel coat worn with sexy stretch flannel cigarette pants and plenty of miniskirts.
ESCADA — For the Sport collection, Brian Rennie created a slew of little ski jackets with fur details, sporty shearling coats and a few military-inspired numbers. For the Escada Collection, he took a more traditional tack, with classic tweed suits, colorful folkloric coats, bright fur chubbies and plenty of the embroidery that’s a house signature. Meanwhile, for the Escada Evening line, Rennie eschewed sequins in favor of classically chic looks, mostly in black, with a few red pieces. The little black dresses, in particular, will have loyal customers begging for more.
Photos By Thomas Iannaccone, John Aquino, David Turner and George Chinsee