Nicholas Nybro Fall 2016


COPENHAGEN — At Copenhagen Fashion Week earlier this month, regional talents got their time in the fashion spotlight. Here are five of note:


Nicholas Nybro

Age: 34

Education: Studied at the Design School Kolding.

From: Denmark

Work: He started his brand in 2011 and showed for the first time on the Copenhagen Fashion Week runway in August 2014. His fall show, which consisted of 23 looks, including six men’s wear styles, was inspired by the Hans Christian Andersen fairy-tale “The Snow Queen.” It resulted in a dramatic collection with over-the-top blood red gowns, flimsy silks and light plastic fabrics. The designer also created the costumes for “Snow, Flowers, Feathers and Fish” that premiered at Copenhagen’s theater Får302 last week.

Inspiration: Alexander McQueen, John Galliano (at Dior) and Jeremy Scott

Claim to fame: Lady Gaga requested two of his previous collections.

 

Freya Dalsjø fall 2016

Freya Dalsjø fall 2016  Courtesy

 

Freya Dalsjø

Age: 26

From: Denmark

Education: Studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp.

Prize: Won the Danish Elle Style Award  for designer of the year in 2015 and was nominated for the International Woolmark prize the same year.

Work: She started her women’s wear label in 2012. Today it counts Copenhagen stores Holly Golightly and Nørgaard På Strøget as well as Moda Operandi among wholesale clients. She used seal skin, linen and waterproof silk in her fall collection.

Inspiration: She cites Prada and Vetements among her favorite labels.

Claim to fame: Victoria’s Secret model Josephine Skriver heated up her spring 2016 runway, which referenced Carrie Bradshaw. Rising Danish actress Klara Kristin, whose debut in Gaspar Noé’s “Love” caused a stir at the Cannes Film Festival in 2015, was spotted front row at the spring 2016 show.

 

 

Mark Kenly Domino Tan Fall 2016

Mark Kenly Domino Tan Fall 2016  Courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week

 

Mark Kenly Domino Tan 

Age: 28

From: Denmark

Education: Studied at the Royal College of Arts in London.

Prize: Finalist of the H&M Design Award in 2013 and scooped the Dansk Design Talent — Magasin prize in 2014.

Work: He started his brand in 2014. Tan has been impressing attendees at Copenhagen Fashion Week for five seasons with his sculptural and feminine silhouettes — a departure from the minimal style typically associated with Danish designers. His  fall collection had lots of silk and embroideries as a nod to his Chinese heritage. Transgender model Vincent Beier has become Tan’s muse, walking his spring and fall 2016 runway in women’s wear looks.

Inspiration: He cites Cristóbal Balenciaga, Christian Dior and furniture designer Pierre Paulin among his favorites.

Claim to fame: He’s a protégé of Crown Princess Mary of Denmark.

 

 

Tonsure fall 2016

Tonsure fall 2016  Courtesy

 

Tonsure cofounders Adam El-Zayat and Malte Flagstad

Age: Both 35

From: Denmark

Education: Flagstad graduated from the master’s program at Central Saint Martins and went directly to work at Maison Margiela for two years.

Prize: Won the Dansk Design Talent — Magasin prize in 2015

Work: The Tonsure fall collection, entitled “Old Word in New Ways,” consisted of 26 men’s wear looks and was inspired by wall-to-wall carpets, rag rugs and oriental carpets.

Inspiration: Raf Simons and Dries Van Noten

Claim to fame: Tonsure was given the opening slot of the just concluded Copenhagen Fashion Week (Crown Princess Mary sat front row). The label is already distributed at retailers including United Arrows & Sons, Beams and Selfridges.

 

 

A look by Camilla Arnbert, winner of the Designers' Nest competition.

A look by Camilla Arnbert, winner of the Designers’ Nest competition.  Courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week

 

Camilla Arnbert

Age: 26

From: Sweden

Education: Student at The Swedish School of Textiles

Prize: Won the Designers’ Nest competition, organized by trade fair Revolver. The prize is valued at 50,000 Danish kroner, or $7,469 at current exchange.

Praise: The Designers’ Nest jury — whose members included Thomas Kowalski, head of talent acquisition at Kering; Vanja Hedberg, Balenciaga senior women’s wear designer, and fashion scholar Ane Lunge Jorlen — said, “Her work is marked by innovative choice of material. She is taking print to the next level without compromising an interesting silhouette. She has created a delicate yet irregular surface which is very impressive.”

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