NEW YORK -- Cotton's role in the Paris couture -- in fabrics as well as embellishments -- was spotlighted in an audio-visual slide presentation staged by Cotton Incorporated last week.Entitled "Cotton at The Couture, Spring-Summer 1994," it was shown five times last Wednesday and highlighted looks by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Gianni Versace, Valentino, Christian Lacroix, Emanuel Ungaro, Maurizio Galante, Hubert de Givenchy, Philippe Venet, Nina Ricci and Oscar de la Renta for Pierre Balmain. The five shows drew a total of 823 apparel makers, designers, fabric firms and retailers to the McGraw Hill Auditorium."Today, cotton at the couture is woven and knitted into everything, from gabardine to voile, lisle to lace, damasks to embroideries," said Marylou Hawkins, Cotton Inc.'s senior director of fashion merchandising.But it's hardly a newcomer. Cotton has been in the couture from the beginning, as illustrated in the clothes on the couture poupees, or dolls, preserved in the Musee de la Mode in Paris, she said, showing several on the screen.Fluidity and movement were features of many of the season's couture looks on view during the show, in cotton and other fabrics, many cut on the bias. Ungaro's tunics, pants and dresses were cut that way and embellished with cotton Madeira embroidery.Embroidery and laces showed up in many varieties: Alencon, Battenburg, Chantilly, Cluny, Guipure, Valenciennes and Venetian. There were lacy cotton open works at Chanel and, at Lacroix, a short black Chantilly lace apron and re-embroidered lace bodice had a T-shirt with lace-encrusted sleeves and cuffs. Lesage cotton embroidery in a floral bas relief effect topped a cream, shaped tunic suit at Valentino. Ungaro used Madeira lace, and combined a midriff-baring cotton bolero with a short taffeta tartan skirt.Hawkins noted that the directoire high-waisted look gives the season's clothes a new feminine proportion. One from Lacroix gives it a modern edge with a miniskirt, she said.Ballgowns were also back, she said, in such fabrics as chiffons and damasks. Saint Laurent's were in color mixes like turquoise and white or pink and white cotton damask.
Exclusive: @longchamp is planning to stage its first official runway show at New York Fashion Week this fall. The French leather goods firm has expanded into ready-to-wear as part of its repositioning as a lifestyle brand. The show, scheduled for September 8, will also cap the brand’s 70th anniversary celebration. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)
The Duke and Duchess of Sussex undertook their first overseas engagement as a married couple in Dublin. The trip included multiple events and outfits changes, including this black dress by @emiliawickstead that Meghan Markle wore for a party at the British Ambassador’s home. #wwdfashion #royals
At 20 years old – and with an estimated net worth of $900 million - @kyliejenner is the youngest person to ever make @forbes’ annual list of America’s Richest #SelfMadeWomen. “It’s incredible to be recognized for something I’m so passionate about, and I’m really grateful for that. I’ve always loved makeup and worked really hard to bring the first lip kit to the market,” said Jenner on founding @kyliecosmetics. See who else is on the list on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @rainerhosch)
“The collection is inspired by Tulum and the Mayan Riviera – its laid-back luxury, life of cabanas, untouched coastline, natural habitats, exotic cocktails and jungle parties with renowned DJs,” said Matteo Maniatty, creative director and cofounder of @descendantofthieves, on the brand’s inspiration for its latest collection. See more designer sketches and inspirations on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #nyfwmens #nyfw
@riccardotisci17 is releasing a limited-edition capsule collection as part of his anticipated runway debut for @burberry in September. Delivered in a series of instant drops, this is the second Burberry capsule collection announced since Friday, when Tisci broke the news on his collaboration with @viviennewestwood. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #wwdnews
“It’s like a Cinderella story. You get a little fake, you get a little real, you put it together and voilà,” said legendary rapper Slick Rick, who helped pioneer the merge of luxury and streetwear. WWD’s @ariahughes spoke to @therulernyc about his jewelry collection, his collaboration with @bally and how the industry has evolved – link in bio. (📷: @kristaschlueter)
@ragandbone and @eminem are teaming up on a special capsule collection of streetwear pieces. Sold at a one-day pop-up in London’s Soho on Friday, the collection features three different T-shirt designs and a hoodie. The capsule is set to kick off the rest of Eminem’s shows in his European Revival Tour, which ends on Sunday. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdfashion