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Dawid Tomaszewski’s urban sophisticates leaned experimental this season. The designer, who has a new atelier and business partner, is clearly revitalized. And while his work has always been beautiful, it now looks like he’s also having fun.

Normally subdued when it comes to color, Tomaszewski went big on orange accents, flashing russets, rusts and tangerines from inseams, belts, and inset panels on dresses and coats.  But that was just part of the rich color story. Threaded with gold, luxurious brocades in navy, sage and bronze evoked landscapes. His signature basket print went oversize with its bright colors fading in a dégradé effect.

Textures, silhouettes and attitudes were mixed and matched, sometimes to a madcap effect. Sweaters were layered under rough wool bustiers, some crystal-trimmed, and a bomber jacket in technical fabric topped a feathered skirt. Tomaszewski also made a persuasive case for knit turtleneck dickies as an all-purpose wardrobe essential: they peeked out from everything, including low-cut gowns and fitted dresses.

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