Perhaps the most anticipated show in Paris was Phoebe Philo’s return to the runway with a new collection for Celine, after a three-year hiatus from the fashion world. Her debut won kudos from fashion editors, buyers and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton top brass, as key executives, including chief executive officer Bernard Arnault, turned out in force. Guests at the show got a preview of Philo’s vision via a paperback book of images that inspired her creative process, including photos of Kurt Cobain, disco balls and work by David Sims and Helmut Newton. Philo turned her back on her bohemian days at Chloé to deliver clean and luxurious looks with a modern sportswear aesthetic—all in camel, black and cream with the occasional touch of moss green.
And Celine’s revamp isn’t limited to the runway: The fashion house is moving to a temporary store in Paris while its Avenue Montaigne boutique goes under renovation for a few months. A long-vacant premises nearby, previously home to Fendi next to L’Avenue restaurant, will host the pre-spring collection from mid-November.