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As they prepare to present in the Japanese capital, designers share the moods, motivations and influences behind their Fall 2016 collections.

“I never put inspiration directly into the clothes I make and I don’t establish distinct themes, but this season I worked together with the accessory brand Heavy & Co. blacksmith to make a joint collection. One thing I am always quite choosy about when I design clothes is the materials. Of course I want people to see different worldviews through the clothes that come out of these materials, but I also want people to enjoy the overall mood created by the Yoshio Kubo brand.”
 Yoshio Kubo

“This season’s theme is ‘the pain of others,’ inspired by the novel ‘Regarding the Pain of Others’ by Susan Sontag.”
Tsukasa Mikami

“The concept for this season is ‘styling that is conceptualized from bags,’ and I want to express a unique style and feeling. I will present a wearable style that, while remaining conscious of silhouettes, also incorporates the functionality of bags into fashion.”
Keiichiro Yuri, Keiichirosense

“Our goal with this season’s collection was to keep until the end the strength of unfinished clothes that is normally lost through the course of production. We wanted to tackle the issue of whether it’s possible to keep that feeling, even in finished clothes.”
Takayuki Tanaka and Motoyuki Matsumoto, Divka

“I was inspired by the fusion of various inorganic substances and organic substances, which exist in the ordinary and the extraordinary.”
 Yu Amatsu, Hanae Mori Manuscrit

“The theme of this season is ‘ambivalence.’ I used a lot of techniques, but minimal expression and detail. It’s a collection that presents a new, previously nonexisting mood through unique combinations of different pieces and a layering of contrary ideas and expressions.”
Noriyuki Shimizu, Name.

“This season’s message is, ‘What makes you happy?’ Of course for each person it’s something or someone different. To recognize differences; for everyone to enjoy their own sense of values; to live in your own unique way; things that are important to you; things that shape your happiness. What is happiness to you?”
The Ha ha design team

“From Scottish glen checks and regimental stripes from Great Britain to herringbone with its roots in American workwear, camouflage and Native American motifs, I am resurrecting a modern urban style by incorporating a variety of symbolic patterns that each carry different histories.”
Ken Oe, Coohem

“The theme is ‘hazy.’ As our theme we are using a Japanese sense of beauty, which is attracted more to hazy or faint things rather than clear, distinct things. It’s about preferring a magical or wondrous view of the world, such as a hazy moon.”
Hiroyuki Horihata and Makiko Sekiguchi, Matohu

“This season’s theme is ‘distortion of space.’ I will express the concept of distortion through both the clothes and the production [of the show].”
Motohiro Tanji

“My fall collection is inspired by the 2011 science fiction movie ‘The Thing.’ Some points from the movie, such as snow, a wolf, science fiction and an alien breaking out from a human’s body, will be translated into the collection. It’s a collection consisting of all the Johan Ku essence with a bit of a twist.”
Johan Ku, Johan Ku Gold Label

“My theme is ‘intersecting lines.’ It’s about how things exist and are renewed through the intersection of multiple components and different factors.”
Yui Hashimoto, Ethosens

“I want this to be not just a show that people watch, but a show that makes them feel something.”
Susumu Miura, Avalone