NEW YORK — The Costume Institute has chosen the designers whose works will be part of the “AngloMania: Tradition and Transgression in British Fashion” exhibit from May 3 to Sept. 4.
The exhibit will feature a mix of British designers, tailors, milliners, a jeweler and a cobbler. John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Christopher Bailey for Burberry, Hussein Chalayan, Vivienne Westwood and Stella McCartney are the featured fashion designers; Paul Smith, Ozwald Boateng, Anderson & Sheppard, Richard Anderson, Huntsman, Richard James, Henry Poole and Carlo Brandelli for Kilgour are the tailors; the millinery will be by Stephen Jones and Philip Treacy; jewelry will be by Shaun Leane, and Manolo Blahnik will provide the shoes.
“It was really hard to come to the selection of designers because there is such a great breadth of creativity in Britain,” said Andrew Bolton, associate curator of the Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. “We wanted the work of designers to reflect the themes of the English period rooms. We wanted clothes to have a direct dialogue. That made it easier for us to narrow down our focus and selection.”
Bolton said the final list of designers was determined by who was the most transgressive or best represented the idea of tradition. “We felt that British creativity comes from this violent crash between tradition and transgression, and so the designers we have chosen reflect the idea of tradition and transgression in British culture and British fashion.”
The exhibit’s contemporary pieces were culled from the 30-year period between 1976 and today. The show also includes historical pieces from the 18th and 19th centuries, which will be juxtaposed with the contemporary designs. The exhibit will comprise about 60 pieces.
“We started with the birth of punk,” Bolton said of the contemporary designs. “It’s the 30th anniversary of the official birth of punk and we wanted to start then because we felt it was a paradigm shift in terms of fashion because it introduced the vocabulary of postmodernism.”
The Costume Institute has also chosen the dance chairs for the annual benefit gala on May 1, which kicks off the spring exhibit. This year’s chairs are Camilla Al Fayed, Lily Cole, Lauren Davis, Lily Donaldson, Lady Gabriela Windsor and Gemma Ward — who will no doubt choose to attend the gala in glittering gowns designed by some of Britain’s brightest fashion stars. The night’s honorary chairs are Burberry chief executive Rose Marie Bravo and the Duke of Devonshire. Co-chairs for the benefit are Burberry’s creative director, Christopher Bailey; Sienna Miller, and Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour.
The show is sponsored by Burberry with support from Condé Nast Publications, which owns WWD.