MILAN — Diesel Black Gold is moving its women’s show to Milan.
The brand, which started presenting in New York in 2008 and is designed by creative director Andreas Melbostad, will debut at Milan Women’s Fashion Week in February. The brand’s men’s show relocated from New York to Milan in January 2012.
“When I decided to have Diesel Black Gold showing in New York I thought it was the right thing to do at that time,” Diesel founder and president Renzo Rosso told WWD exclusively. “New York Fashion Week is unique and is very important for the contemporary market and it was perfect for Diesel Black Gold when it was a small label with a lot of growing opportunities. Now Diesel Black Gold is a brand generating revenues of more than 30 million euros [or $32.3 million at current exchange] and the business strategy has changed.”
Rosso listed the two main reasons behind his decision to move the brand’s show to Milan as, one, a “reunification with the homeland.”
Secondly, “the most important reason is linked to the business model,” he said. “Asian buyers prefer to come to Milan rather than New York — it’s closer and they find more brands.”
According to Rosso, Asia represents the future of the fashion industry. “Within 2020, more than 50 percent of luxury goods’ customers will be Chinese, so it’s becoming crucial to reach them properly.”
In addition, Rosso highlighted the fact that this decision is also a way to support the Camera Nazionale della Moda and the whole Italian fashion system.
“I’m part of the fashion chamber’s board and I feel like it’s important to give a hand to this country,” said Rosso, praising the initiatives promoted by Camera della Moda president Carlo Capasa aimed at relaunching Milan as a relevant, appealing fashion destination.
“I’m very happy with Renzo’s decision to bring Diesel Black Gold to Milan,” Capasa said. “This will help inject a new impulse into Milan Fashion Week since Diesel Black Gold is a cool label and it represents a fresh, modern expression of Italian fashion.”
Referring to the OTB group, which includes Diesel, Maison Margiela, Marni, Viktor & Rolf, Staff International and Brave Kid, Capasa also pointed at Rosso as the only Italian fashion entrepreneur who has been able to create a real fashion group that can compete with international conglomerates.
Diesel Black Gold, which operates a flagship on London’s Conduit Street, sells its collections in about 200 stores in the world.