Spring marked a return to form for young Balenciaga-trained designer Dietrich Emter, who went to the dark side last season with somber tones and literal references to Hieronymus Bosch. Emter showed a range of finely constructed feminine shapes that were ladylike without being prim. Contrasting or tone-on-tone insets and appliqués gave blouses, skirts and shorts some geometric punch. Jackets and coats were structured and collarless, with cropped sleeves that curved from the elbow. Emter also embraced a more relaxed style in loosely draped and tied dresses and gowns in flowing parachute silks.