Bronze pin with pavé diamonds and faceted and carved cognac quartz.

NEW YORK — Jewelry designer Stephen Dweck has gained some clarity in his work — particularly the kind associated with diamonds.<BR><BR>Known for his use of enormous colored stones and minerals, he is launching his first diamond collection...

NEW YORK — Jewelry designer Stephen Dweck has gained some clarity in his work — particularly the kind associated with diamonds.

Known for his use of enormous colored stones and minerals, he is launching his first diamond collection for fall.

The pieces don’t stray far from Dweck’s signature aesthetic, yet they are toned-down just enough to introduce the brand to a more conservative fine jewelry customer and retailer.

Statement-making stones remain key, such as the large carved cognac quartz on the bronze link bracelet, but are surrounded by diamonds for accent.

The collection hit stores this month, and when Dweck designs next spring’s diamond selections he will build back into fall’s color palette so that the pieces can be collected and worn for years.

Last fall, Dweck designed a small number of diamond pieces in 18-karat gold exclusively for Bergdorf Goodman.

“The collection is very wearable, it’s clean and it has a modernness about it,” said Robert Burke, Bergdorf’s senior vice president for fashion and p.r., of Dweck’s new venture. “It’s unique and we’re always looking for things that look special and differentiate themselves.”

Burke also noted that although all of Dweck’s pieces are displayed in the same case, the diamond designs have caught the eye of a new clientele.

“It certainly appeals to his existing customer, because it’s not a big jump in aesthetic,’’ he said. “But it’s definitely bringing in a new customer as well.” The diamond collection retails from $800 to $4,000.

Dweck also hopes to lure the celebrity set and plans to design one-of-a-kind pieces for Hollywood actresses walking the red carpet.

One year shy of his 25th anniversary as a designer, Dweck enjoys a strong business with specialty stores like Bergdorf’s, as well as fine jewelry stores, but he expects the diamonds to open even more doors.

“We’re a very big vendor [at Bergdorf’s], but I want to be a big vendor everywhere,” he said. “We’re a very big player in Neiman Marcus and Saks, we’re in all the best jewelry stores around the country. But not all of them understood the fashion and the minerals; they needed this. I was tired of not being given the chance to be called a jeweler.”

This story first appeared in the September 20, 2004 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

— Emily Holt