Emanuel Ungaro and Aeffe SpA have parted ways, WWD has learned, as the two parties have decided not to renew the license inked three years ago.
Aeffe plans to focus on its own brands, while Ungaro’s collections will be produced by Modalis, formerly known as Studio Roscini. It is understood Fausto Puglisi will continue to design the Ungaro line, which will remain distributed by the network set in place by Aeffe.
The French fashion house struck a deal with Italy’s Aeffe to relaunch its top line in September 2012, and tapped the up-and-coming Sicilian talent Puglisi as Ungaro’s creative director. Since then, Aeffe has set in motion a reorganization of its portfolio and structure, seeing solid traction at Moschino under the creative direction of Jeremy Scott, and returning to profit in 2014.
In addition to Moschino, Aeffe controls the Alberta Ferretti and Pollini brands, and also produces and distributes collections for Cédric Charlier. In June, the company signed a multiyear licensing agreement for the production and worldwide distribution of Scott’s namesake ready-to-wear label. Lorenzo Serafini was tapped to develop the Philosophy brand, while Alberta Ferretti has been focusing on her own namesake label, and her limited-edition and bridal collections.
Modalis is based in Italy’s Umbria region and earlier this year inked a licensing agreement with John Galliano, designed by Bill Gaytten, to produce its men’s and women’s rtw.
The Ungaro brand is controlled by Asim Abdullah, a San Francisco-based high-tech entrepreneur, and his investment vehicle Aimz.