CHICAGO — All things embroidered and embellished were in demand at market here.

“People ask, ‘When is this sequined, embellished thing going to go away?’ It’s not,” said Jessica Bortko, a sales representative for Karin Berger Ltd. “It’s going to go through holiday. Every line we carry has some type of beading or sequins.”

Among the must-haves at the market, which ended its four-day run June 6 at the Apparel Center, were sequined, beaded embroidered skirts from Basil & Maude.

“It’s such a look of the moment,” Bortko said. “People are reordering more than we can deliver.”

Buyers walking into the Berger showroom gravitated to the rack of colorful novelty skirts and sequined boleros.

Mary Settecase, owner of Charisma on Lakeshore Drive on Chicago’s Gold Coast, examined the sequined skirts but thought they might be too young for her mature and upscale clientele. Instead, Settecase opted for sequined and beaded black and cream sweaters from Joseph A.

“That seems to be the trend now,” Settecase said of the sparkling embellishment. “I’m all for glitz. You go to department stores for basics. I have to have things in my store that you can’t find at Neiman Marcus.”

The specialty store owner also ordered resort looks from Tianella.

“It caters to a more mature figure,” Settecase said.

She liked oversized cowlneck Tencel sweaters and larger shirts with mandarin collars that can be easily layered in shades of melon and turquoise.

Bortko said turquoise continued to be a hot color for fall, noting strong-selling cashmere blend sweaters in the hue featuring wood beading and sequins from Design History.

Asian-style embroidered drawstring pants in white, black and khaki from Johnny Was brought strong orders, Bortko said, as well as items with a Southwest or rodeo theme.

Another interesting trend attracting buyers’ attention was deconstructed fashion or the so-called bobo style popularized by the Olsen twins.

Raw 7’s cashmere sweaters lived up to the name with their reverse outside seams, raw edges, loose threads and slightly ripped collars that drew buyers’ interest, as did the line’s tweed blazer with leather detailing and elbow patches and a similar raw-edged jacket from 3J Workshop with floral embroidery, Bortko said.

This story first appeared in the June 17, 2005 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

Inge Rosen, owner of David’s in Cleveland, opted for a tried-and-true top seller by picking up fresh colors and patterns of a beaded bustier top with shelf bra by Aftershock.

“When we get them in, we sell them out of the box,” Rosen said of the piece that works well under suits or with jeans.

Embellishment also played a key role for fur retailer Maria Leka.

The owner of Max Karpman Furs & Fashion in Springfield, Ill., ordered wide leather belts with rhinestones, glitter and turquoise from Leatherock and large felt hats with big brims and flower details in silver, black, black and white and loden from Toucan. Leka predicted the flamboyant hats would be strong sellers with her African-American clients looking for items to wear to church.

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