LONDON'S YOUNG GUNS: Looks by emerging designers during London Fashion Week ready-to-wear spring 2018 ranged from the nautical to fairy-tale romance. See what they designers had in mind for their latest collections:Richard MaloneSearing shades and expressive silhouettes jostled for attention in Richard Malone’s lineup, with the designer saying he’s inspired by “weird contrasts." He drew on inspirations spanning from Thirties and Forties showgirls’ costumes to rubbish found in the street. A shorts-and-jacket combo had one voluminous, rounded shoulder and was paired with striped blue and white gloves and matching stripey thigh-length boots with cutouts. There was fluidity, too, as in one form-fitting, sleeveless dress crafted from panels of blue and white fabric, with pleated, fluttering skirts.[caption id="attachment_10996364" align="aligncenter" width="400"] A look by Richard Malone.[/caption]Roberts-WoodDesigner Katie Roberts-Wood took to London’s Dover Street Market, where she put on a conceptual installation, an interpretation of her Roberts-Wood spring 2018 collection. Vast, sheer panels threaded with silk organza hung from the store’s ceilings, between which Roberts-Wood suspended delicate dresses that resembled bird cages in their construction. Panels of fabric were hand-linked rather than stitched together, she said. The installation made a feature of the technique, which is often hidden on the inside of Roberts-Wood’s rtw garments. “If you buy it…you might see it inside, but it’s not immediately obvious. It’s about layers of discovering things,” she said.[caption id="attachment_10996367" align="aligncenter" width="400"] Roberts-Wood's conceptual installation at Dover Street Market.[/caption]Paula KnorrGerman designer Paula Knorr toyed with the conventions of dressing up, splicing together high-octane — and sober — fabrics. A sharp white shirt was worn with a pencil skirt in panels of shimmery red and beige lamé, while a slinky, red lamé dress had its back fashioned in plain black cotton. While the overall effect was experimental, there were still plenty of pieces for the “real woman,” who Knorr said is always an inspiration. Alistair JamesDesigners Nicholas Alistair Walsh and David James Wise said they wanted to spread the message of love with their romantic, well-constructed range. "We looked at fairy-tales and the way humans relate to them and how that affects us today," Wise said. "We wanted to escape all the bad things that are happening in the world."Titled "Love Conquered All," the collection featured asymmetrical ruffles on a floor-length shirtdress with a pussycat bow, and a briar jacquard made with woven metallic details on a flared trousers and jacket. The jacket had heart and star embellishments made with Swarovski crystals and draped chains.[caption id="attachment_10996368" align="aligncenter" width="400"] A look by Alistair James.[/caption]SteventaiSteven Tai brought out his nerdy girl once again. "She is witty with really sharp humor," Tai said. "She appreciates these colorful things that are reminiscent of her childhood in a way."There was a bright orange sailor hoodie worn over a blue stripe oversize shirt and high-waisted navy cinch trousers. A navy boiler suit was festooned with white enamel buttons. A voluminous navy blouse with a white gathered collar was paired with roomy striped trousers.Xiao LiXiao Li said her collection was prompted by an urge to “become more invisible. I just feel I don’t want to show off so much,” she said with a shrug on the sidelines of her London presentation.Cue a collection in cool tones of blue and white — with flashes of pink — which played with diaphanous fabrics. One chiffon skirt was hand-woven into a check pattern — demonstrating Li’s commitment to what she called “slow fashion." Shirtdresses came in feminine silhouettes with full, A-line skirts.[caption id="attachment_10996365" align="aligncenter" width="400"] A look by Xiao Li[/caption]Tugcan DökmenTransparency was a feature of Turkish-born, London-based designer Tugcan Dökmen's collection. Dökmen, who graduated with a master's in fashion from London's Royal College of Art, said she’d imagined “a dreamy pop version of forest nymphs."Her models wore floaty tulle dresses and tops that were layered to combine and intensify the colors. One translucent midi dress was done in Seventies-style chevrons in pink and purple, with the pattern created by layers of tulle.[caption id="attachment_10996366" align="aligncenter" width="400"] A look by Tuğcan Dökmen[/caption]
In honor the @CFDA’s announcement of @iamnaomicampbell receiving the Fashion Icon Award at the 2018 #CFDAAwards, which will take place on June 4, here’s a #tbt of the supermodel on @michaelkors’ runway in 1991. #wwdfashion #wwdarchive (📷: George Chinsee)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech during @sxsw for @createcultivate in partnership with @fossil. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.