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A retro-futurist mood dominated Esther Perbandt’s fall collection. Her deconstructionist approach included strong suiting — some uniform-inspired, shown cinched with long straps, d-rings and raw, asymmetrical hems — for men and women. Perbandt bundled up her winter soldiers, layering honeycomb knits over silk pieces and leather, all done in her favorite color: black. Soft winter white and gray glen plaid broadened the palette. And while Perbandt typically favors androgyny, here, she went more traditionally womanly with militant schoolgirl looks and flowing goddess styles that still stayed on the tough side of feminine.

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