PARIS — Karl is into country girls, Helmut Newton continues at Rive Gauche and Givenchy is sketching away.

Those are some highlights from the Paris ad scene for fall, where budgets are up only minimally and establishment magazines and newspapers are expected to land most of the business.

Campaign concepts range from the edgy and experimental to the simple and straightforward.

Karl Lagerfeld, who takes an active role in the ad campaigns of his collections — Chloe, Chanel and his signature line — said of Chloe’s fall effort: “It’s a modern-day tale. It’s a story about a country girl from Oslo, Norway, who becomes a world-famous top model.”

Cast for the role is Linda Evangelista. “She’s really an actress,” said Lagerfeld, discussing the campaign in the midst of a couture fitting at Chanel. The colorful and romantic images, photographed in Oslo, show Evangelista in different phases of the story. Two images are outdoors and snow-filled, two others are shot in a museum. But just as the collections’ Lagerfeld designs are starkly different, so are their ads.

The Chanel campaign for fall is filled with color and fake fur, reflecting the collection. “It’s very clean, impeccably focused, easily identifiable,” Lagerfeld said. Models Brandi and Trish Goff are featured in the shots.

Lagerfeld’s signature campaign is more of a “pushed fashion point,” using model Nadja Auermann with Christian William. The challenge for all three campaigns, Lagerfeld said, is translating the fashion show message into still photos with a lasting image. “It’s not hard, but it’s part of the game,” Lagerfeld said, adding that he savors photographing his own ads. “I am forced to look at my own work with a critical eye,” he said, noting it keeps him in the creative groove between collections.

Eric Pfrunder, ad director of Chanel, said the company’s media plan from previous seasons remains largely unchanged in Europe and will stick with classic women’s fashion titles.

Ad spending is slightly higher this year than it was last year. Givenchy for fall, is continuing to combine sketches with photos, a look it introduced earlier this year. Working with Paris-based agency Colorado, Givenchy created a stark black-and-white ad placing model Heather against the backdrop of a huge Givenchy sketch, with the “Simply perfect, simply elegant” tag line.

Ad spending is slightly up for the year, compared with 1993, said Maria Herrero, director of Givenchy’s couture advertising. Here, Givenchy will advertise in Madame Figaro, Elle, Joyce, Femme and Vogue. In the U.S., Givenchy is considering Town & Country, Vanity Fair and W. Givenchy will also advertise in a handful of Japanese magazines, including Katei Gaho and Seven Seas.

At Yves Saint Laurent, Clara Saint, a spokeswoman for Rive Gauche, said the company will continue to work with Helmut Newton, who created 14 new photos for fall.

While the media plan has not been finalized, Saint said Rive Gauche will advertise in Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, Elle and W in the U.S. Future publications may include the American edition of Marie Claire.

In Europe, Rive Gauche will advertise in the European editions of Vogue and Elle. In the U.K., titles will include Tatler and Harpers and Queen. Other publications are Germany’s Madame and Spain’s Hola! New to the fall media plan are the Singapore edition of Marie Claire and the new Vogue for Singapore, which will be launched in October.

At HermÄs International, the firm’s fall ad campaign will focus on its ready-to-wear, using the same style, but not the same slogan as the current “HermÄs, time makes the difference” campaign, according to Francoise Aron, a director of Paris-based agency Eldorado, which has had HermÄs as a client since 1978. The tag line for the campaign will be simply, “HermÄs Collection Fall-Winter 1994.”

The emphasis on apparel reflects the company’s strategic interest in developing both its men’s and women’s ready-to-wear. For fall, Eldorado held an open casting to find ordinary people for the campaign, which was photographed by Daniel Aron.

Spending will be flat compared with fall 1993. Titles will include Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Mirabella, The New Yorker, Marie Claire, Elle and W.

In France, Hermes will buy space in Vogue, Madame Figaro and the news magazine Nouvel Observateur. Last year, HermÄs spent 229 million francs ($41.6 million) on advertising and communication. Spending this year will be similar, the company said.

Louis Vuitton will continue for fall with its vintage toy campaign, launched last February, according to Jean-Marc Loubier, Vuitton’s marketing and communications director.

The company said it planned to spend about half its advertising and promotional budget on the campaign, shot by Jean Lariviere and developed by Paris agency RSCG. In 1993, Vuitton’s ad budget was roughly $14 million and was significantly increased for 1994.


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