CRYSTAL BALL: “I’m mad about crystals, they have a great energy. I have bowls of them as decoration all around the house,” said Eva Cavalli, wife of designer Roberto Cavalli. She was among those in the front row Wednesday when Swarovski invaded couture week with its “Runway Rocks” show featuring sparkly looks commissioned from 28 international accessory and ready-to-wear designers. Participants included Azzaro’s Vanessa Seward, Vivienne Becker, Antonio Berardi and Jean Paul Gaultier. Crowd-dazzlers included Gaultier’s crystal-embroidered floor-length dress, inspired by constellations, and Shaun Leane‘s thorny creation that had a model entwined in silver branches, a red crystal orchid popping from her mouth.
DRIVE, HE SAID: How much do the French respect fashion? At least enough to give a pass on a potentially dangerous traffic violation. When an editor en route to the Chanel show got stuck in traffic, her driver got out of the car to warn the stalled drivers behind him. He then backed out into the wrong side of the two-way street and drove all the way down in reverse, ignoring dirty looks along the way. When he finally turned the corner, a policeman on a motorcycle pulled up, ready to write a ticket. “I’m sorry, officer,” the driver explained, “but I have an American journalist here who must get to the Chanel defile.” “All right,” the cop responded. “Next time, mind the code.”
BY THE DOZEN: Balenciaga is on a commercial roll — and its spring advertising campaign is no exception. The ads, slated to break in March magazines, are packed with merchandise and — for the very first time — handbags. Designer Nicolas Ghesquière booked 16 models for photographer David Sims, who captured a good portion of the knockout collection.
BIG TIME: Onetime Richemont executive Mounir Moufarrige is getting back into the watch business. WWD has learned he is now president and a shareholder in U-Boat, an Italian maker of oversized timepieces designed by Italo Fontana. “I’ve been looking for something in the watch business that’s different,” Moufarrige said, showing off a chunky style also worn by the likes of David Beckham. He plans to introduce the brand to the jewelry trade at the Basel watch fair in March. Meanwhile, Moufarrige still has his fingers in many other fashion pies, including Worth, Goyard and the up-and-coming Beirut couturier Zuhair Murad.
Related Galleries
KIMONO CAPERS: It was easy to spot Kenzo Takada in the small crowd that gathered Tuesday night in Paris at Baccarat’s Crystal Room for a light seafood dinner prepared by the Japanese designer’s private chef. The formerly retired Takada, who has staged a comeback over the last year or so, was the only one in a kimono. “I love dressing like this,” offered Takada, who convened the party to fete his new crystal creations for the house of Baccarat, including crystal candlesticks, vases engraved with Asian scenes and a sitting Buddha statue. “All of the creations are inspired by Japan or Asia,” added Takada, who recently launched a home decoration line of his own.
IN THE FAMILY: Chez Loulou de la Falaise, there’s always a whiff of family, or at least close friendship, in the air. The cocktail party she hosted Tuesday in her Left Bank shop was no exception. Convened to fete her collaboration with photographer Bettina Rheims on her spring catalogue, guests included a smattering of her inner circle, from Betty Catroux to various members of the old Yves Saint Laurent gang — though Mr. Saint Laurent stayed home. Even her relationship with Rheims is close. “We’ve known each other for 30 years,” said Rheims. “It’s great working with people you know and trust.”
SOMETHING OLD: Martin Margiela is technically not a couturier. But he’s butting in on Paris’ high fashion schedule with a presentation of his so-called artisanal collection of handmade pieces. On display at the Belgian designer’s headquarters here are pieces born of Margiela’s penchant for recycling throw-outs, from a dress stitched of sequined garments from the Eighties to blouses made of fake flowers and a top pieced together from strands of vintage costume jewelry. Other offerings include necklaces from garbage found on beaches, a vest of flattened bottle caps and a waistcoat of laminated playing cards.
CLEMENTS RIBEIRO REGROUPS: Clements Ribeiro has passed on showing a fall ready-to-wear collection as the company continues to restructure. But Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro, who put their business into voluntary liquidation after a manufacturing crisis last summer, plan to present shoe and bag collections for the fall season. “It would have meant too much juggling,” said Ribeiro, regarding a fall collection. “We’re showing our bags and shoes, we’re still doing Cacharel and we’re in advanced talks with a potential investor.” As reported, Pier Srl, based near Venice, terminated its licensing deal with Clements Ribeiro in August after one season. In September, the couple showed an abbreviated rtw collection and sold it to a small group of long-standing customers. Ribeiro said he expects to sign a deal with a new partner over the next few months and resume business as usual.
FILM BUFFS: Members of the Italian film industry had an unlikely star surprise at an event at Salvatore Ferragamo’s Fifth Avenue flagship last week: Woody Allen and Soon Yi Previn. The couple made a brief appearance at the Wednesday night fete honoring Salvatore Ferragamo’s fete for the Medusa Films’ 10th anniversary. After the cocktail hour, the crowd — which included Isabella Rossellini, Italian actor Stefano Accorsi (sans fiancée, model Laetitia Casta) and various industry members — headed over to MoMA for a screening of the 1998 film “La Cena,” followed by dinner. “Ferragamo doesn’t believe in product placement, but movies are still ingrained in the brand and have been since the beginning,” said Clarice Pecori Giraldi, worldwide communication director for Ferragamo.” Events like these are how we support the film industry.”
SCHUMACHER MOVES: Most Italians associate the name Schumacher with a Formula One driver named Michael. Whimsical German brand Schumacher is out to change that, opening a Milan showroom next month, just before the women’s shows kick off. Mannheim-based Schumacher is no stranger to the Milan shows — until now, it has presented its collections at the Four Seasons — but the label is ready to move into its own space, on Via Senato, right around the corner from the Via Della Spiga shopping strip. Schumacher will unveil its fall/winter collection at its Düsseldorf showroom during trade show CPD, running Feb. 5-7.
FAMILY AFFAIRS: It takes a lot more than cold, rainy nights to keep London’s party set still in January. So it’s no surprise the winter season was back in swing last week with the launch of Fiat’s Grande Punto on Brick Lane, and the unveiling of the All Star Lanes upscale bowling alley, a decidedly posh take on a blue-collar icon. Guests at the Fiat party, including Francesca Versace, Matthew Williamson, Rocco Forte, Andy Wong, Piers Adam and Tamara Beckwith, mingled with Fiat managers in dark suits and de rigueur suntans. But while guests downed Prosecco wine and nibbled on spoonfuls of risotto Milanese, the big question was: “Where’s Lapo?” Although the London tabloids had hotly anticipated the triumphant return of Lapo Elkann, wayward grandson of the late Gianni Agnelli, he never showed. “I don’t think he ever planned on coming and submitting himself to the British press. Would you?” said one fashion industry source. Elkann recently has been treated for drug abuse after an overdose left him in a coma last fall. He is in charge of Fiat’s brand promotion, and has been working on rejuvenating the company’s image.
Across town in Bloomsbury, Lady Annabel Goldsmith and her family were celebrating the opening of All Star with such American food as burgers and crab cakes, fancy cocktails such as pomegranate martinis and ultraplush interiors. “It’s an experiment, and we’re offering the whole package: bowling and food and drinks that don’t come in a plastic cup,” said All Star’s founder, Mark von Westenholz, whose investors include brothers Zac and Ben Goldsmith. The evening belonged, however, to Momma Goldsmith, who couldn’t stop herself from jumping up and down every time she knocked over the pins.
DISHING DIRT: Cynthia Rowley can be quite tongue-in-cheek, a point she is proving again with her newest collection of dinnerware for specialty dish boutique Fishs Eddy. The Dirty Dishes line of white plates, bowls, cups and saucers feature risqué watercolor motifs of women lounging around suggestively, wearing little clothing except for tiny panties and floral crowns. This is Rowley’s second dinnerware collection for Fishs Eddy, though her first, called Fashion Plates, was arguably tamer. “I wanted to make dishes that are sexy, pretty and even more delicious than your dinner,” Rowley quipped about her new line. Priced from $16 for a side plate to $22 for a dinner plate or serving bowl, the collection is expected to hit Fishs Eddy and Cynthia Rowley boutiques by next month.