Designers who are not yet in the major leagues often struggle for a decent time slot on Paris’s crammed ready-to-wear calendar — and are often relegated to the end of fashion week, when many U.S. editors have already skipped town. But the Chambre Syndicale, which organizes Paris fashion week, delivered some good news this week: It’s reserved Oct. 7, the first official day of shows, for them. Chambre Syndicale president Didier Grumbach said major houses, who usually kick off the week, asked for an extra day for fittings with big-name models, and he decided to fill it by inviting the likes of Andrew Gn, Bernhard Willhelm, Stella Cadente, Haider Ackermann and others to move up their shows. It all adds up to a more gradual transition from Milan to Paris. In observance of Yom Kippur, which falls on Oct. 6, only a few off-calendar shows, including Y’s by Yohji Yamamoto, have been scheduled. Christian Dior, Comme des Garçons and other big names are slated for Oct. 8. The Paris shows run to Oct. 14.
MUSIC BY NIKE: Rain or shine, Mos Def and Everclear were ready to perform Wednesday night after Nike’s I Run NY 4-mile race in Central Park for the 4,500 participants. But it wasn’t all music and mileage: Never one to miss a marketing op, Nike set up mannequins replete with its latest running apparel at the finish line.
HYPE DREAMS: Only six months after he announced a new investor and expansion plans, Paris designer Jose Levy has filed the French equivalent of Chapter 11 proceedings. Levy, best known for his men’s wear and as the former creative director at Chanel’s Holland & Holland, blamed a lack of financing and a difficult market. He said he intends to close his Paris shop, located in the Marais district. “It’s not an easy time for young designers,” he said. “It’s a disappointment, but I intend to find another way to go forward.” Levy said he would like to work more closely to everyday consumers, as he recently did by collaborating with the La Redoute mail order catalog. “To survive now, I think a young designer has to come up with a more approachable, less-expensive formula,” he said. “The hype of the runway and overemphasis on image is no longer a viable approach.”