SCHIAP REDUX?: Tod’s SpA was said to be considering a deal to produce a ready-to-wear collection under the Elsa Schiaparelli name, but sources say the plans have been put on hold due to the large investment of time and money it would take — not to mention the Italian soccer scandal that has engulfed Tod’s head, Diego Della Valle. A list of potential designers — including Behnaz Sarafpour, Matthew Williamson and the newly free agent Olivier Theyskens — has been circulating. But Tod’s now is said to be looking to unload the rights to the Schiaparelli works because Della Valle and his brother, Andrea, are focusing on their fight against charges of match fixing, which resulted in their being stripped of their managerial powers at soccer team ACF Fiorentina.
BERTELLI VENTS: No one can deny that the demand for earlier deliveries grows each season. Prada chief Patrizio Bertelli proposes a new solution to the problem: moving up spring/summer women’s fashion week to July to give fashion companies more time to produce and deliver in December and reduce the number of times buyers have to travel to Europe. Bertelli told Italian daily Il Sole 24 Ore that such a dramatic shift of the show calendar would transform the global production cycle and boost competitiveness. “Today, the customer doesn’t wait for you, he/she doesn’t identify with just one brand, [but] buys where a new product arrives first,” he said in a rare interview, in which he also criticized the Italian fashion industry for taking monthlong vacations in August and for sticking to outdated models that don’t serve emerging markets like China, Russia and India. Bertelli was not available for further comment Thursday. “The world has changed since the late Nineties, and our business has to evolve as well,” he told the newspaper.
BIRKIN BEAUTY: Jane Birkin, who inspired the music of her late husband Serge Gainsbourg and lent her name to an iconic Hermès bag, has most recently become an olfactive muse. U.K. perfumer Lyn Harris has just concocted a fragrant ode to the actress-cum-chanteuse-cum-director. It’s called L’Air de Rien (“an air of nothing,” in English), which is to be part of her Miller Harris fragrance line. The oriental fragrance, comprising notes of amber, vanilla, neroli, oak moss and musks, is meant to recall Birkin’s life and passions. William Blake-style nymphs, sketched by Birkin, appear on the scent’s flacon and packaging, alongside Miller Harris’ traditional floral decorations. The 100-ml. eau de parfum will hit shelves starting in September, priced at 75 pounds, or $139 at current exchange.
CHANNELING MARISA: Where in the world is Marisa Berenson? At the moment, she’s working as an actress in Paris. Next spring, Berenson will be appearing in Tokyo. There she’ll become the focus of fashion curator Beatrice Dupire‘s newest project, an exhibition on Berenson’s contributions to pop culture. Dupire expects to mount the show in collaboration with the Tokyo National Museum and the city’s Bunkamore Gallery. The idea, Dupire said, will be to give people a chance to walk around and share Berenson’s past experiences as an actress, a social figure and a leading model in the Sixties, through the lenses of photographers, among other artists — much as Yves Saint Laurent was portrayed in the 40-year retrospective Dupire helped stage in New York in 1999.
“We will feature past portrayals as well as some via up-and-coming artists,” Dupire said of the exhibit she’s planning on the 59-year-old granddaughter of Elsa Schiaparelli. “She is a muse and an inspiration; she is working to rediscover herself.”
BURBERRY ON HOLIDAY: When the hustle and flow at Burberry allows, creative director Christopher Bailey still likes to escape to his cottage in Yorkshire, England. But his creations are bound for warmer climes, namely The Breakers in Palm Beach. In November, Burberry will open a 1,000-square-foot outpost at The Shops at The Breakers in the 140-acre seaside resort. Burberry Prorsum, as well as its signature line, will be sold in the new store, said John Zoller, The Breakers’ vice president of retail operations. Like the 150-year-old Burberry, The Breakers is in its second century and has had a few incarnations. Built by Standard Oil co-founder Henry Flagler, the property was once a popular escape with such American heavyweight families as the Rockefellers, Vanderbilts, Carnegies and Morgans. Too soon to tell if Bailey will visit the towering Florida landmark.
TV LAND: While Kate Spade chief executive officer Andy Spade plans to stay with the accessories firm, no matter who eventually buys it, he now has a backup plan: television. “It’s TV for people who don’t like or watch TV,” said Spade Monday night at the screening of “Jack Spade Presents: The Neistat Brothers Television Show,” at the Core Club in New York. The event attracted Tom Sachs, Will Cotton, Ann Dexter-Jones and Cynthia Rowley, who sat through three 15-minute episodes conceived by Spade and up-and-coming filmmakers Casey and Van Neistat, who also created some short films for Kate Spade in February.