While Nice and Cannes may be the fabulous destinations for the jet set, Marseille, the French Riviera’s rebellious sibling, likes to shake things up. Unpolished in appearance next to its Hallmark-worthy neighbors, this eclectic, cosmopolitan city emits assorted ethnic vibes, an underground bohemian feel and Gallic grandeur. Only three hours from Paris by high-speed train, Marseille stretches across a series of white cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean. In Le Panier, once the city’s immigrant quarter, meandering cobblestone streets crisscrossed with lines of laundry have attracted swarms of Parisians eager to purchase panoramic views of the sea. In a courtyard, R.E.M rings out from an artist’s studio, but gets tangled in the threatening lyrics of IAM, a controversial Marseille-born rapper whose words blast from a parked car—an enthralling juxtaposition of cultures. Marseille doesn’t leave anyone indifferent—you either hate it or you love it, says Maryline Bellieud-Vigouroux, president of Marseille’s Mediterranean Fashion Institute. A cultural mélange of Algerian, Corsican, Moroccan, Tunisian, Italian and French influences infuse the city’s music, fashion and food. But at the end of the day, Marseille’s magnificent mayhem is quieted by a colossal poster of Zinedine Zidane, a veritable soccer legend, that watches over the centuries-old port with an epigraph that reads: “Made in Marseille” for all to see.
Like the city, Marseille’s fashion scene is culturally diverse, with North African influences a counterpoint to imported Parisian style. The city also boasts Europe’s most avid soccer fanatics, which has activewear brands vying for retail space. Adidas staked its first-ever Sports Performance Store here in the city center. Denim, however, remains Marseille’s ubiquitous fashion staple, due in part to its close proximity to Nimes (which put the “nim” in denim). Local jeans brands such as Kaporal 5 and Le Temps des Cerises are the labels of choice for teens, and the designers behind the Blue Cult, Antik Denim and Citizens of Humanity labels are said to have Marseille origins. Meanwhile, a handful of local brands are making a statement in Marseille and beyond. Sessun (6 Rue Saint), a contemporary sportswear store for women, and accessories label Gas are the city’s fashion pride and joy. The Rue Paradis boasts labels such as Paul & Joe and Max Mara, as well as trendy retailers such as the Boudoir de Fanny at No. 128, which sells brands such as Cacharel and Maje plus a handful of young designer names. The city, which has been upping its fashion quotient at breathtaking speed, even named a street Rue de la Mode. The Galeries Lafayette department store chain recently inaugurated a new concept store targeting 15- to 35-year-olds—a format it plans to duplicate in other capitals. Situated on Marseille’s Rue Saint Ferréol, home to a plethora of fast-fashion chains, the new Galeries concept sprawls over 96,875 square feet and boasts a selection of local designers, contemporary brands for men and women and special features such as a Levi’s barber shop, live DJs, an Apple store and trendy restaurants.
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Apèros, or apertifs, are as sacred here as soccer. Around 6 p.m., young urbanites gather for pastis, a licorice-flavored liquor, or a glass of rosé in the Old Port to listen to live jazz music at La Caravel, an old fisherman’s tavern, before taking a pint-sized ferry across the port to the Bar de la Marine for more tipples and tunes. In the Cours Julien district, students lounge at tables under cypress trees, enjoying cafe-style meals at Le Jardin d’à Coté, (65 Cours Julien), Il Caffe (63 Cours Julien) or Le Sud du Haut (80 Cours Julien) before heading over to the Espace Julien, a concert hall that hums with rock, hip-hop, reggae and African grooves. Chez Jeannot (129 Vallon des Auffes), a simple pizzeria situated in the postcard-perfect port called Les Auffes in the city’s center, should not be missed. For more chic dining, BO (4 Rue Lacydon) serves up French cuisine with Italian and Provençal influences, while high-end restaurants Le Petit Nice Passédat, (Corniche Kennedy Anse Maldormé) and Le Peron (56 Prom Corniche John Kennedy) are perched on cliff tops overlooking the sea. Marseille also has a thumping after-hours scene. The Livingroom (10 Place de la Joliette), Le Club and L’Hippodrome are the most happening hangouts, while in the summertime, nightclubs on the beach swell with locals and tourists alike. For the underground scene, plugged-in locals follow their favorite international DJs and head to La Friche or the Trolleybus on Friday nights before winding down with some food at Le Mas de Lulli (4 Rue Lulli), which serves various Marseille specialties as well as bouillabaisse, the ultimate seafood bouillon, until 6 a.m.
The hotel scene is a step behind the city’s fashion and food. The Mercure Beauvau, at 4 Rue Beauvau in the center of town, is Marseille’s oldest hotel and offers a panoramic view of the port, while Le Petit Nice Passédat near La Corniche, the city’s most polished district, has private access to the ocean and spectacular views of the sea.