NEW YORK — Marc Jacobs struck a feminine tone for resort, but without going supersweet. Certain looks, in fact, had a boy-meets-girl-meets-vintage feel. Pretty floral prints, inspired by Maarten Vanden Abeele’s “Pina Bausch,” a book about the German choreographer, abounded on light-as-air layered dresses, while other frocks were pieced together with patches of slips from the Forties and Sixties. Jacobs counterbalanced it all with punk details — D-rings, zippers, straps, studs — on everything from skinny pants to leather shoes.
Meanwhile, Doo-Ri Chung, fresh off her CFDA win for Swarovski’s Perry Ellis Award for Womenswear, went for the goddess look. Her white and cream Doo.Ri collection was full of swingy minidresses and leggings, along with halter tops and tanks that were twisted, ruched and wrapped around the torso.
Peter Som also was keeping things light, while still playing with volume and details. His dresses were draped and soft, bowed blouses were done in a sweet floral print and lace decorated the neckline of a wrap dress. All the while, the designer still kept true to those preppy, nautical looks for which he’s known.