Limi Feu: To those critics who mentioned Limi Yamamoto’s close aping of her daddy’s ethos in her Paris debut last season, this collection offered up a retort: So what? Like father, like daughter. Mannish baggy pants; wide, ballooning skirts; ample shirting, and impeccable tailoring gone slightly kooky — the elder Yamamoto’s m.o. was all here, and unabashedly so. But for all the shared similarities, their design spirits vary. Limi Feu skews more girlish and fresh, with this collection exhibiting far more polish than Yamamoto’s previous punky outing. Her clothes have a sense of humor, too. Take, for example, the intriguing top spliced together from a collared white shirt and a polkadot velvet tank, the latter half equipped with an ultralarge — practically sacklike — side pocket. Also terrific: her trompe l’oeil layered looks. What appeared from the front to be a blazer thrown over an intarsia vest was actually one garment from the back. And there’s more to Limi Feu than a younger slant on experimental construction. Yamamoto delivered some perfectly pretty and practical clothes, as well: the simple slouchy knits, for instance, and outerwear cut with wearable foppish proportions.
More From the Shows
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac: “Why can’t a woman look more like a Rubik’s Cube?” was among Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s eye-popping propositions, as he put that graphic pattern on a catsuit, but beyond the wackier fare were wearable new-rave styles — schoolgirl blazers, pleated skirts and stars-and-stripes spangled jackets — sure to please his following of indie girls.
Collette Dinnigan: Sleek trousers paired with military-style jackets and cocktail fare decorated with silver sequins and fluffy feathers added up to a chic and wearable collection from Collette Dinnigan.
Vanessa Bruno: Floor-sweeping chiffon dresses or skirts paired with loose-fitting blazers were key elements in Vanessa Bruno’s wearable winter wardrobe, in which breezy styles, such as a strapless dress in smoky green and knits layered over flowing, high-waisted pants, are sure to please her faithful following.
Alena Akhmadullina: Furs were the standout element of Alena Akhmadullina’s feather-themed collection, especially the belted tawny possum jacket with rounded shoulders and a glossy black yak knee-length gilet, cinched with a silk sash.
Commuun: Kaito Hori and Iku Furudate focused on soft structure in their Commuun collection, working their minimalist cocoon-shaped coats and dresses in supple, luxurious fabrics, while simple dresses were veiled with undulating folds of organza.
Martin Grant: Offering neat tailoring with a twist (think a red coat with an exaggerated funnel collar) and fetching retro cocktail fare (some decorated with floral swirls), Martin Grant catered to faithful clients such as Lee Radziwill, who sat in the front row.
Chapurin: Catering to his loyal Russian clientele, Igor Chapurin filled his collection with rich furs — one with wisps of ostrich feathers fluttering from its shoulders — as well as hard-edged ensembles with ribbon-like folds of fabric at the yoke and neckline.
DressCamp: Joining Paris’ growing band of young eccentrics, DressCamp’s Toshikazu Iwaya delivered an enchantingly quirky lineup — from a roomy fur-edged silk coat in a dinosaur print, created by Paris’ National Museum of Natural History graphic designer Pascal Laroche, to Belle Epoque-style frilly gowns in bold feather prints.
Naoki Takizawa: Blending high-tech fabrics with artisanal savoir faire, Naoki Takizawa, a former Issey Miyake designer, offered hand-sewn cashmere coats and sporty nylon blousons decorated with hand-painted wings.