Maximilian at Bloomingdale’s
Among the three collections at Maximilian, Karl Lagerfeld’s is the star. In his characteristic role as provocateur, the Kaiser blithely pinked the edges of luxurious Russian sable greatcoats and attached vests to long mink kimonos. He’s not afraid to dye, either, tinting sheared muskrat or mink in rich aubergines and garnets. But Lagerfeld also goes refined — his long, lean natural mahogany empire great coat with delicate drawstring closures was a knockout.
Louis Feraud’s coats for Maximilian were best when he kept them simple. Never mind the multi-colored shearlings with stained glass or lion patterns. The simpler coats — particularly his opera-collared sables and minks, broadtail tuxedo coats and sable-trimmed cashmeres — were more successful. Almost every piece of the AltaModa group is looped, knotted or fringed. While some look a bit tortured, the natural Canadian walnut sable hooded coat with signature fringing was an exception, as was the natural ranch mink coat with a scalloped “petal” hem.
Andre and Lisa Bisang take pride in details, and they showed it with their collection for Tepper. Every design had something special — frog or toggle closures, drawstring collars and cuffs or a shirttail hem. One winner was the camel cashmere cape coat with a golden Russian sable drawstring shawl collar. Among the dressier looks were directionally worked cape coats in golden marten or natural Canadian fisher and a black Russian broadtail shirttail cape with gathered sleeves. Modern shapes are another Bisang trademark. Especially good were the shearling boleros and gilets, and a spectacularly minimalist cardigan in cream sheared beaver reversing to suede.
Bob Mackie is no shy guy, so it’s no surprise that he’s gone all out for color in his collection for Corniche. Working mostly in sheared mink, the designer sent out classic trenches, officer’s coats and even ponchos in deep gold, navy, forest green and cranberry red. A number of looks also featured contrasting fur whip stitching — the anthracite sheared muskrat strollers with camel-toned mink accents were the high point. Corniche also presented its designs for the M. Collection, including beautiful, neutral-toned cashmere coats trimmed with Tibetan lamb or classic mink and charcoal sable coats edged with chinchilla. Best of the Gabriel Pisani by Dyria Furs were strollers in gold sueded persian lamb and black swakara and the golden-skin mink long coats. And Piazza di Spagna’s standout was the shawl-collared wild-type mink tied with tassels.