The clouds parted Tuesday just in time for Hien Le’s spring 2017 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin show in the garden of the Kronprinzenpalais. Nature’s color scheme was a perfect match for the collection’s: sky blue, light blue marl and white dominated the breezy looks for men and women.
After sitting out last season, the Berlin minimalist made a strong return with this show. His use of color and fabric was artfully controlled, yet the garments were anything but strict. Le’s men’s and women’s designs have always been complimentary; here, they shared fabrics and silhouettes, including sheer tops with crisp capelet effects. Jumpsuits and tone-on-tone separates had a uniform feel; a khaki short set could appeal to the chicest of boy scouts.
Stripes commingled with stripes — wide with narrow, vertical over horizontals. What could have been jarring instead merged harmoniously, creating fluid, grid patterns. Silk organza underlayers for men’s shirts and women’s blouses floated, while pleated organza polyester skirts provided a crystalline effect, peeking out under a slit skirt and easy jacket.
Inspired by the art of sculpting, Le was working with the idea of negative space. The results were more positive than ever.