Brand: Ron Herman Denim
This story first appeared in the June 20, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Key Styles: The Los Angeles-based retailer is pouring attention into premium denim. Now in its second season, the brand’s most coveted piece is the Koki — a heavy repair, medium vintage trouser with hand-sewn patching. It reportedly takes one week to finish.
Design/Inspiration: Taking cues from “the kids in L.A.,” the styles have a relaxed Californian feel. While the denim is Japanese, the elaborate stressing is done in L.A. Basics include black, raw, white — and everything in between. Hems are, at times, deliberately left unfinished.
Prices: A raw denim pant retails for $275. The brand’s most expensive item is the Koki, at $1,100.
Brand: WANT Les Essentiels de la Vie
Key Styles: Founded by twins Byron and Dexter Peart, the Canadian brand has turned accessories for busy guys into a stylish affair thanks to its O’Hare day tote and Kastrup backpack, which features compartments for every gadget imaginable.
Design/Inspiration: This season, the twins launched their first footwear line with comfort as its key element. The shoes come in two styles, the Montoro, a lightweight derby, and the Lennon, a sleek calf-leather sneaker that comes with a heel-pillow at the back and an elegantly rounded front, easily marrying style with function.
Prices: The sneaker retails between $350 and $395, while the derby goes for $495.
NEXT: Rose & Rose >>
Brand: Rose & Rose
Designer: Robert Rose
Key Styles: This family-owned business based in London has put scarves back on the map, focusing on pure, natural materials. Among the standouts is the firm’s “denim-inspired” cotton chambray with rich Mexican embroideries, while its soft cotton scarves with geometric patterns give off a chic, masculine vibe.
Design/Inspiration: Rose & Rose’s idea for holiday is to match the design with beachwear in the summer and to catch the après-ski mood during winter. For its ethnic-inspired embellishments, the firm draws on the best specialists in each category — embroideries are done in India, hand-dipped dyed cashmere comes from Mongolia, while its winter styles “are hand-knitted by grandmothers in Ireland.”
Prices: Between 60 pounds and 190 pounds, or $101 and $322.
Brand: McRitchie Original Scotland
Key Styles: The Italian knitwear firm is breathing new life into suit jackets, the company’s bestseller.
Design/ Inspiration: Focusing on lightness and ultracomfort, McRitchie’s terry cloth suit jackets come in beach-perfect stripes and colors, feeding into this season’s lux-lounge theme. Also in terry cloth, the crewneck sweater has been reworked with short sleeves, oozing a subtly retro, Fifties-inspired vibe.
Prices: Prices have not been determined yet; at wholesale, they are expected to range from around 80 euros, or $108, for a polo shirt to around 230 euros, or $311, for a jacket.
Designers: Rory Wykes and Michael Smith
Key Styles: Established in 2010, the English-French brand provides essential, modern options that are functional and do not “overshadow” the wearer, such as a dry goods selvage denim jacket with a utilitarian flair along with graphic yet softly printed T-shirts.
Design/Inspiration: For summer, the brand cued the lines and colors of the North Sea coast, introducing a paper-thin parka raincoat from resin cotton, which also features heat-pressed stripes and drawstrings, building on the label’s pure and masculine aesthetic.
Prices: A parka retails for 400 euros, or $542.
NEXT: Grenson >>
Key Styles: The English heritage firm is on a roll with its colorful variations of classic men’s shoes. The bestseller, “The Stanley,” is a leather lace-up in classic tan.
Design/Inspiration: For summer 2015, Grenson thought up the Color Block made from chic, roughed-out suede, featuring a hand-painted sole in a matching color. Hues include light gray, indigo and tan. For the first time, the brand also experimented with linen, using it wisely on a lightweight slipper.
Prices: The Color Block retails for $445, while the Triple Welts, another key item, can go up to $1,000.
Designer: Massimo Pigozzo
Key Styles: The Italian brand’s deconstructed blazer, a refined mix between a suit jacket and a cardigan, is a show stopper. Another key item here is the Italian work trouser, a loose-fit number that blends easily with other men’s staples.
Design/Inspiration: This season, Barena reproduced a Fifties print found in an undisclosed archive, which the company recently snapped up. The subtle floral pattern has kept the original’s yellowed look and was seen on comfy, low-profile shirts and trousers, oozing “radical chic.”
Prices: Between $280 for a shirt and $900 for a jacket.
Designer: Marco Kinloch Herbertson
Background: Inspired by his wife Antea Brugnoni Alliata, member of a noble Sicilian family and Arab-world expert, the designer launched the luxury accessories label in October 2011. Recently, Milanese company Sum Ventures acquired a stake in the company to sustain the growth of the brand on the national and international market.
Design/Inspiration: Retro and contemporary elements find a perfect balance in the colorful, eye-catching yet hyper-sophisticated patterns designed by Kinloch Herbertson, which are printed in Italy on a range of silk accessories, such as ties, scarves and pocket handkerchiefs.
Key Styles: Luxury silk ties, scarves and pocket handkerchiefs are offered in a bright color palette of orange, grass green, yellow and lilac, and are decorated with various motifs, spanning from owls to stylized Chinese characters. The brand also introduced printed linen and cotton shirts.
Prices: Pocket handkerchiefs retail from 80 euros, or $108; ties for 125 euros, or $169, and shirts from 390 euros, or $529.
NEXT: Matsuda Eyewear >>
Brand: Matsuda Eyewear
Background: The brand was originally founded in 1989 by Japanese designer Mitsuhiro Matsuda, one of the founders of Tokyo Fashion Week. The eyewear label, relaunched in 2011, preserves the same uniqueness and exclusivity of the products conceived by Matsuda in the Nineties.
Design/Inspiration: In a world dominated by fast production and consumption, Matsuda Eyewear stays true to the most traditional, high-end Japanese craftsmanship. It produces eyeglasses that are high-tech, with a very contemporary, sleek and sophisticated and timeless look.
Key Styles: Matsuda Eyewear worked high-end Japanese acetate for a range of architecture-inspired sunglasses, including a blue aviator style with contrasting light brown leather side shields, as well as chic, cream rounded frames with tortoise arms and green lenses.
Prices: From $550 to $1,700
Design/Inspiration: Known for its multicolored, striped socks, Gallo, which was founded in Milan in 1927, continues to expand its product offering with ready-to-wear pieces, swimwear and accessories. In keeping with the brand’s colorful yet sophisticated look, the company also introduced new patterns peppering socks, swimwear and ties.
Key Styles: In order to promote sustainable practices, especially during summer at the beach, Gallo launched Gallo Reef, a capsule of cotton socks and swim shorts decorated with coral reefs, which are available in three color combinations: turquoise and red; white and red, and blue and white.
Prices: Swim shorts retail at 103 euros, or $129, and socks are 22 euros, or $30.
Design/Inspiration: Valstar teamed up with Japanese luxury retailer United Arrows to launch Valstar_Starting Over, a capsule collection of four iconic outerwear pieces, available in different fabrics and colors, embodying the spirit and aesthetic of the Italian label.
Key Styles: The Valstar_Starting Over capsule includes two waterproof raincoats — a shorter and a longer version — crafted from classic Biella luxury wools, which are treated to obtain high-tech materials through the use of membrane and jersey layering, along with two blousons in lightweight napa leather and printed suede. While the former pays tribute to the Valstar traditional blouson, the latter shows a more casual college inspiration.
Prices: Trenches retail between 600 euros, or $813, and 750 euros, or $1,061, while blousons range from 630 euros, or $854, to 1,800 euros, or $2,440.
Brand: Brunello Cucinelli
Design/Inspiration: Three elements are defining the label’s spring luxury men’s wear collection: sartorial style, lightness and color combinations. The brand continues blending casualwear with sartorial elements to define new sophisticated, fashion-forward silhouettes. It focuses on the use of lightweight fabrics and constructions and offers a new take on colorblocking, creating outfits where the top and the bottom are shown in contrasting colors, including rich tones inspired by spices, along with various shades of blue and gray.
Key Styles: Standouts include a new wool and silk waterproof, elongated jacket for midseasons, narrow-legged pants with double pleats adding volume on the hips paired with piqué polo shirts, along with a new wool and silk featherweight Windbreaker, available in two lengths. The label has also expanded its tailored offering and introduced tuxedos showing the jackets and blazers in two different tones of the same color.
Brand: Eton X Eidos
Design/Inspiration: Swedish luxury shirt specialist Eton and Eidos, the tailoring brand established by the Isaia company in 2013 with Antonio Ciongoli as its creative director, have teamed up to launch a limited edition of high-end men’s wear pieces produced with the finest materials and sartorial techniques.
Key Styles: The capsule will include a three-piece pin-striped flannel suit, an unconstructed plaid sport coat in a fabric by high-end textile maker Carlo Barbera and a Casentino wool coat, along with shirts and ties.
Prices: Suits retail from $1,395.
Design/Inspiration: Aiming to find the perfect blend between fashion and functionality, Letasca founders Elbio Bonsaglio and Edoardo Giaroli launched their first collection of vests, featuring 10 pockets allowing men to carry a flurry of objects, including sunglasses, a passport and mobile devices such as a laptop and an iPad Mini.
Key Styles: The vests, which are reversible, are offered in various fabric combinations with solid colors and digitally printed marble patterns.
Prices: Retail prices range from $250 to $400.