Women’s brands congregated in New York City last week to present new collections for spring 2018 at Capsule, Woman and Coterie. Here are a few of the notable brands creating buzz at the shows.
Misa Los Angeles
Year Started: 2016
Aesthetic: Luxe and feminine. “It’s definitely coast to cocktail,” said Shadi Askari-Farhat, designer and owner of the brand. “Half the pieces you can wear to cocktails, a wedding or an evening event. Every piece is unique and different and definitely statement pieces.”
Key Pieces: Florals, plaid and gingham sets, mix/match stripes and prints within a silhouette and ruffles with boning. “My goal is to give women an ultimate wardrobe,” noting the line includes sweaters, dresses, tops, bottoms and bodysuits. “I like to create heirlooms. I don’t like fast fashion,” said Askari-Farhat.
Prices: Tops wholesale between $78 and $124, skirts are $112 to $150, pants are $112 to $134 and dresses are $150 to $220.
Year Started: 2012, first time showing at Coterie.
Aesthetic: Figue, which was launched by Stephanie von Watzdorf, was born out of her passion for travel and desire to share the talents of artisans around the world. The line’s aesthetic is global gypsy-meets-jet-set spirit, combining unusual prints with layered textures, embroideries and hand-beading. It is both luxurious and bohemian.
Key Styles: The line includes colorful pants and wrap kimonos and caftans. Fabrics are 100 percent silk or 100 percent cotton, but a few styles are a mix of cotton/viscose and cotton/Lurex. All of the prints are original to Figue and all of the embroidery and embellishments are hand done in India.
Prices: Ready-to-wear wholesales from $130 for a top to $158 for a Goa pant. Dresses and caftans are generally $238 to $558. There is a highly embellished dress in the collection that wholesales for $1,280. Figue is available at farfetch.com, matchesfashion.com and Net-a-porter, as well as stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman and the Figue boutique in East Hampton.
Year Started: 2004 (launched this year in the U.S.)
Aesthetic: Feminine collection all about bold colors and prints. The company, which has an office in São Paolo and a small office in New York, is about the art of craftsmanship. There’s hand-beading and hand-embroidery done in their own Brazilian factory.
Key Styles: Lots of daytime pieces, and some evening styles. Mostly separates, including flowy maxiskirts and mini skirts, crop tops and bralettes, novelty prints with a beachy resort vibe and a jungle motif.
Prices: Tops wholesale from $89 to $175, dresses are $250 to $260 and can go as high as $500.
Year Started: 2017
Designer: Julia Zhu
Aesthetic: Sophisticated, ageless take on fashion-forward dressing. Directional, but wearable. Feminine with men’s wear influences. There is never a floral in Caara, which is based in Australia.
Key Styles: Back-tie dress in black and white, paper bag cropped pants, black sweater vest and Brooklyn blouse.
Prices: $50 to $70
Year Started: 1924
Aesthetic: The British heritage brand is best known for its waxed cotton jackets that work well in wet and cold environments. But in its ongoing attempt to target customers in a variety of regions, the team is introducing Origins, a collection of lighter weight styles made from modern fabrics and based on Belstaff’s classic silhouettes.
Key Styles: The collection includes a bomber jacket, a nylon parka, a four-pocket jacket and a longer trench style with a detachable hood. Each coat is packable and made from quick drying, water-repelling, stretchable fabrics that feature UV protection.
Prices: $495 to $895
Hudson x Baja East
Year Started: Hudson Jeans formed in 2002 while Baja East started in 2013.
Designer: Scott Studenberg and John Targon worked with Hudson’s design team on this collection.
Aesthetic: Baja East, a luxury men’s and women’s brand, and Hudson Jeans collaborated on a small holiday capsule and bigger spring collection that merges Hudson’s manufacturing capabilities with Baja East’s relaxed styles.
Key Styles: For holiday, the brands created velvet pieces including a velvet blazer, crop top and harem pants that came in a lavender. The denim assortment consisted of a denim bustier, boot-cut styles with slits, an oversized denim jacket and matching shorts covered in Baja East prints — a botanical motif and an all-over logo print — along with a dip-dye jacket and matching shorts. Knits ranged from off-the-shoulder sweatshirts to ribbed tanks.
Prices: $95 to $395
Year Started: 1975
Designer: François Girbaud
Aesthetic: Closed, the German denim brand, has teamed again with Girbaud, the company’s original designer, on a capsule collection for spring 2018. Girbaud looked to cycling to design the line, which consists of utilitarian denim and knits that work well in motion.
Key Styles: Girbaud implemented details he created when he first arrived at the brand such as the “X” construction and the flag logo into newer silhouettes including stretch, cropped denim with removable stirrups and mixed stone wash denim with step hems. T-shirts and knits feature reflective strips, while garment-dyed, reversible bomber jackets are lined with Girbaud’s illustrations. Outerwear includes cropped denim and twill jackets and a stretch trenchcoat with reflective details.
Prices: $51 to $384
Levi’s Made & Crafted
Year Started: 2009
Aesthetic: After focusing too much on its big box business, Levi’s decided to launch a premium denim brand, which was based in Amsterdam for seven years before being brought back to San Francisco in 2016. The line features elevated takes on Levi’s signature silhouettes.
Key Styles: Levi’s is celebrating the 50th anniversary of the trucker jacket. The design team at Made & Crafted looked to aboriginal surf for the spring collection. This resulted in a hand-beaded trucker jacket, a knit style with fringe along the sleeves and a Japanese shibori-dyed jacket. In terms of denim shapes, Levi’s is still riffing on clean, cropped styles, but presented a new silhouette called the barrel, which has a high-rise waist with a bit of volume in the leg. Knits included Baja hoodies, cropped hoodies with ruching details and tie-dye T-shirts.
Prices: $148 to $450
Year Started: 2015
Designer: Danica Zheng
Aesthetic: Zheng, who attended architecture school at USC before going to The New School’s Parsons School of Design for fashion design, founded Pamplemousse, which means grapefruit in French, in downtown New York City. She’s known for her lingerie-inspired ready-to-wear.
Key styles: For spring, Zheng presented her signature slip dresses attached to a white T-shirt along with floral windbreakers, off-the-shoulder cotton blouses updated with pleats, open-back dresses with ribbon closures and a sheer, knee-length skirt with ruching details.
Prices: $125 to $225
WOMAN TRADE SHOW
Year Started: 2016
Designer: Ya Jun Melody Lin
Aesthetic: Lin launched her namesake line while still in school and soon after won the Parsons x Kering Empowering Imagination design competition. Stylist Mel Ottenberg served as a judge and pulled a voluminous statement jacket for Rihanna’s VMA performance that same year, which has become the designer’s claim to fame. Her aesthetic leans on a balance of contrasts — tailored and experimental, hard and soft, grungy and feminine — inherent in her name (in Chinese, “ya” means elegant, and “jun” means gentleman). Spring 2018 marks her official fashion week debut.
Key pieces: Statement separates with a streetwear bent, including patchwork tops and pants with topstitching, updated military jackets and long-sleeve tops with ruched treatments and elongated lines.
Prices: Simpler tops start at $100 wholesale, ruched long-sleeve tops at $210 and statement jackets up to $512.