NEW YORK — These days, some designers think of cruise collections as pre-spring, or even pre-fall, essentially a sneak peek at what’s to come. Giorgio Armani, for example, takes a pre-fall approach, with feminine pieces that lend themselves to the mix-and-match game. Throughout, Armani cuts and crafts a sea of silks, from breezy chiffons to sturdy jacquards, and plays with contrasting proportions, some snug and fitted, some loose and fluid, with lots of swingy skirts. All very sophisticated.Moschino’s creative director Rossella Jardini, meanwhile, is inspired by French porcelain dolls from the Thirties for supple little dresses and pantsuits. She favors playful and quirky fabrics such as lamé jacquard, buttoned bouclé and striped silk poplin — all made exclusively for the firm. The palette is dusty, in shades from light blue and sage green to lilac and rose with touches of white. The Moschino Cheap & Chic line also takes a feminine turn, but with whimsical, Fifties-style details such as butterflies, bows and polkadots.
Photos by Thomas Iannaccone.