NEW YORK — Spring lingerie trends are all about the romantic and the natural.
That is the main message of the two-week workshop of directional lingerie and fabric trends by Concepts New York for Invista Inc., presented by Iris LeBron, vice president of the U.S. division of French parent Concepts Paris. The customized workshop is being staged for retailers, manufacturers, merchandisers and designers at the Invista offices here at 1430 Broadway.
LeBron — who scouts for trends at stores and lingerie and ready-to-wear fashion shows and trade fairs in Europe, Asia and the U.S. — opened the session with a slide presentation of lingerie and rtw trends that underscore innerwear-outerwear concepts. Fabric boards, items purchased at retail and prototype pieces provided tangible details of emerging trends for spring-summer 2006.
The three themes are:
- New Romantics, a return to simplicity.
- Fiesta, an eclectic mix of pattern and color.
- Quiet Nature, a focus on organic, ethereal looks.
“After a season of excess and overkill where everyone took it to the max with decorative treatments, the New Romantics represents a time for fresh, calming looks in both lingerie and ready-to-wear,” said LeBron, noting that key brands illustrating this statement include Dolce & Gabbana, Viktor & Rolf, Alberta Ferretti, Diesel, Verde Veronica, Leonisa, Lejaby and Studio 183 by Ace Style.
Treatments include minimal-and spaced-out-pattern laces, mini lace narrow trims, tiered ruffles, minimal seaming, tucking and lace-up effects, and a range of petite floral prints. Key colors include muted teal, salmon and lavender, as well as pale yellow, which “freshens up the nude tones with brands like Chantelle,” she said.
LeBron described the Fiesta group as “energizing,” with misty-looking ombré shades by designers such as Matthew Williamson, placement patterns by Esprit, bold stripes at Kenzo and mixes of florals, stripes and message logos like “Cowgirl” from Puket, a swimwear and lingerie brand from Brazil. She said a number of these ideas from the rtw field could easily cross over into lingerie, and vice versa.
LeBron displayed a bra and panty set that clearly identified the Fiesta statement: a pop art-printed triangle bra and coordinating boy-cut brief of cotton and Lycra spandex by Women’s Secret, a Spanish swimwear and lingerie label. “It’s young contemporary, and what’s great about it is the bra is reversible and it has a magnetic closure at the back,” she said.
Regarding the Quiet Nature theme, LeBron said, “There are a lot of gray heather marled fabrics inspired by Norma Kamali and Donna Karan that can be used in lingerie as well as ready-to-wear in stretchy, lightweight looks.” She noted that “cut-out, trompe l’oeil paisley bodice treatments by Balenciaga, engineered lace back treatments by Hermès, and printed faux corsets on seamless garments by Dior,” could easily be translated into intimate apparel.
Meanwhile, LeBron said a new generation of ultralight fabric blends of Lycra with Modal, Tactel and Supplex are addressing the comfort, function and fashion needs in lingerie.
“It’s all becoming much, much lighter and finer,” she said, showing swatches of a new sheer Supplex and Lycra and a semisheer blend of Modal, Tactel and Lycra that has a silk-like hand.
She further noted that several new introductions in September at the Lyon, Mode City trade fair in Lyon, France, received strong reaction: Xtra Fine Lycra for intimates that offers soft comfort and long-lasting shape retention, and Xtra Fine Lycra for rtw that features nonrestrictive stretch and drapability.