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Beautifully — and confidently — incorporating elements of her cherished Moldavian and Romanian handicrafts, Isabell de Hillerin presented a fall collection that was equal parts tough, elegant and sweet. Intricately knotted accents and panels — a traditional carpet-making technique reworked in blue or black cotton or mulberry mohair — looked anything but artsy-craftsy running along shoulders and sleeves or set into the sides of otherwise fluidly simple wool jackets and coats. Soft tailoring came to the fore in not only cardigan coats and jackets, but also in cropped pants, high-waisted cigarette skirts, culottes, long flared skirts and even a strapless paneled wool gown.

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