Taking her cues from the surreal world of David Lynch, Isabell de Hillerin delved into dark for her latest collection. Her signature column gowns — winter-ready in wool and tencel — and silky separates in midnight blue and black had a femme fatale quality. A miniature men’s wear check in virgin wool was cut into a sleek sashed dress and sharp suiting, including cropped trousers with double-stitched front seams.
There were some clunky, experimental moments, such as bulky overflaps on heavy wool tailored trousers. But, for the most part, De Hillerin refined her details. Her use of traditional embroidery, which has veered folksy in the past, was elegantly executed as brooding skyscraper motifs on the lapels.