View Slideshow

NEW YORK — Accessories trends are flowing from the runway to the main floor at a white-water pace and beginning to inundate the market.

At last week’s Accessorie Circuit at the Show Piers and AccessoriesTheShow at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center here, designers presented everything from wooden jewelry and layered necklaces for spring to somber black and Russian-inspired looks for fall. Attendance was up 20 percent at AccessoriesTheShow, but only increased 6 percent at Accessorie Circuit, show organizers said. The large numbers of trends and their broad range made it somewhat difficult for buyers, and even vendors, to focus.

“These trends get so overexposed so quickly,” said Stacey Pecor, owner of Olive and Bette’s, who attended Accessorie Circuit.

“There wasn’t a lot of newness at this show,” said Dale Lindholm, owner of Pure Accessories, referring to the Accessorie Circuit exhibit. “So no one has a clear-cut direction of what they’re looking for.”

That said, a new trend in fashion jewelry for fall was the movement toward a sort of melancholy femininity and the strong use of black stones and beads.

“I was inspired by the somber palette on the runways this season,’’ said Roxanne Assoulin, designer of Lee Angel. “After binging on embellishment and bright color, you have to fast.”

Assoulin offered black and midnight blue bib necklaces intertwined throughout with velvet ribbons, intricate chains and silk flowers.

Gerard Yosca, who offered a scalloped fake-ivory pendant on a long black cord, said, “[The look is] really Victorian mourning jewelry. Black has been strong because it’s not dumb black. It’s got an iridescence or a touch of dark blue.”

Erickson Beamon showed a complete collection of black jewelry. Faceted jet and beads were formed into elaborate swag necklaces, with a lacing of rich black leather roses. Angélique de Paris continued the black theme with roses in a resin and sterling silver ring, with two rosettes. Nine West showed vintage-looking black and crystal paste-like earrings at their showroom.

Although some of the black and moody pieces might be seen as depressing, vendors said business continues to boom. Jeweler Alexis Bittar, who touched on the Victorian theme with his Lace collection in which the jeweler transformed strands of seed pearls to resemble long lace earrings and dainty chokers, said he is close to signing a lease for a new store in Manhattan’s West Village and that sales are up from last year.

This story first appeared in the May 9, 2005 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

Ellin Saltzman, fashion director of Bluefly.com, noted that Accessorie Circuit was slow on Tuesday, but she continued to buy, as, she said, business is looking up.

Handbag label Kooba reached $1 million in sales at Accessorie Circuit, said Cynthia O’Connor, owner of sales showroom Cynthia O’Connor + Co.

“Consumer confidence is a little on the fence,” said Janet Goldman, president and chief executive officer of Fragments. “But, if you give them something fresh, they’re going to buy it.”

Deborah James, owner of the boutiques bearing her name in Boca Raton and Las Olas, Fla., wasn’t buying the moody dark trend. James said, “It’s going to be a big fur and velvet year, and everything turquoise is on fire.”

Some designers were still showing bohemian looks that were strong for spring.

Hobo handbag shapes in soft, crinkled lambskin, as offered by Junior Drake and Gustto. Gustto’s version, inspired by a chic Parisian woman from the Seventies, was gray, with light brown piping and polished quarter-sized grommets at its corners. Handbag designer Lauren Merkin showed an unconstructed shoulder bag in dark teal velvet.

More peppy and optimistic looks were offered at Eliza Grey, whose canvas tote was trimmed in a variety of brights, including lime and aqua, each with the company’s signature jeweled brooch in assorted shapes like elephants and starfish.

New designer Minnie Prince showed a brown and camel herringbone tote with a matching ribbon bow at top.

Belts were maintaining the momentum seen for spring. Kooba launched leather belts in shades of cognac, chocolate and tobacco brown, with brushed gold grommets, its first new category since handbags. B-Low The Belt showed simple leather belts with batik and tooled detailing, and Helen Welsh offered leather belts with crystal studded buckles.

load comments
blog comments powered by Disqus