Byline: A. A.

PARIS — Parfums Lanvin is continuing its efforts to reestablish itself as a fragrance player.

After relaunching the 1927 Arpege women’s classic in a number of countries last year, the company will bring back the scent this fall in the U.S., where Lanvin fragrances have been off the market since 1991. Arpege also will be relaunched in Italy.

“Our strategy is to rebuild the brand over five years,” said Georges Klarsfeld, managing director international of Prestige & Collections International, the fine fragrance division of L’Oreal SA. “We are concerned with quality, and we are rebuilding door by door.”

L’Oreal acquired 50 percent of Parfums Lanvin in 1990, with the remaining shares held by the investment group Orcofi.

This September, Arpege will be introduced in America in 12 department store doors, said Klarsfeld, and also in Italy in 900 doors. U.S. accounts will be Saks Fifth Avenue, I. Magnin and Neiman Marcus.

The company will also dust off the scent’s old advertising tag line, “Promise her anything but give her Arpege,” for a new campaign, Klarsfeld said.
While relaunching the scent around the world, Lanvin will add an Arpege bath line in some of its existing markets.

The four-product range, called La Ligne Delicieuse, will be introduced in France, Switzerland, Belgium, England and Australia in September, and will roll out to additional markets next year.

The collection will include deodorant spray, body lotion, bath and shower gel and bath soap. In France, the products are priced between $12 (65 francs) for a 100-gram soap and $41 (220 francs) for a 200-ml. body lotion.

Klarsfeld also said the company will launch a new men’s fragrance in 1996. Monsieur Lanvin, which had been the only remaining Lanvin men’s scent, was discontinued at the end of last year.

The other Lanvin men’s scents, Lanvin for Men and Vetyver de Lanvin, were taken off the market before L’Oreal bought into the company, Klarsfeld said.

He did not disclose the name of the new men’s fragrance, but noted, “It will be in the tradition of fine French fragrances, and will contain a high percentage of natural ingredients.

“We want to situate ourselves on the same competitive level as Guerlain,” he added, referring to the prestigious French fragrance house.

As part of last year’s relaunch, Arpege was restored to its original formula of more than 60 natural ingredients. In recent years, cheaper ingredients had been used, Klarsfeld said.

The scent’s original black ball-shaped perfume bottle was also upgraded, and the fragrance was backed with intensified advertising.

Last year’s rollout included France, England, Switzerland, Belgium, Australia and several Middle Eastern countries, as well as duty-free outlets.

The efforts to give new life to the fragrance are paying dividends, Klarsfeld said. In 1992, Lanvin’s wholesale volume in France totalled $3.7 million (20 million francs), of which almost $3 million (16 million francs) was generated by Arpege.

However, in 1993, French volume rose to $5.5 million (30 million francs), of which $5.2 million (28 million francs) was generated by the relaunched Arpege.

Klarsfeld declined to discuss worldwide volume, but industry sources estimate that global turnover this year will be between $15 million and $20 million at wholesale.

Arpege was backed this year in France by a print ad and bus shelter poster campaign that cost $1.2 million (6.5 million francs), Klarsfeld said. The ad and poster were photographed by Dominique Issermann.

Klarsfeld noted that approximately $1.3 million (7 million francs) is budgeted for advertising in 1994, which will include special Mother’s Day inserts in magazines.

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