NEW YORK — Estée Lauder is adding a little more color to its fall lineup.
This story first appeared in the July 9, 2004 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Lash XL Maximum Length Mascara, as well as a lip stain line, Pure Color LipTints; a new lip gloss collection, Pure Pops Brush-On Color; Prime FX Color Neutralizing Primers, a group of products designed to create the illusion of perfect skin; and an extensive makeup brush line will join the beauty giant’s offerings this fall.
Lash XL, coming in September, is the key offering among the color additions. The mascara is designed to dramatically lengthen lashes with a proprietary formula dubbed ElongEX, which combines liquid waxes and silk-infused fibers. According to Anne Carullo, senior vice president of global product innovation for Estée Lauder, “The formula works by matching positively charged fibers in the mascara to negatively charged eyelashes, and it is then set in place by stretchable polymers.”
A proprietary brush, which Lauder has dubbed the Super Traxion Brush, combines stiff bristles, which apply the formula, with microbristles that separate lashes to achieve maximum volume. The formula will be available in four shades — black, brown, charcoal and blue — all retailing for $21, noted Peter Lichtenthal, senior vice president of global marketing at Estée Lauder.
Daniel Annese, vice president of marketing, North America at Estée Lauder, noted that national advertising for Lash XL, featuring spokesmodels Liya Kebede and Carolyn Murphy, is slated for September fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines. He wouldn’t comment on projected sales or on advertising and promotional spending for any of the new introductions, although industry sources said they estimate that Lash XL will do about $20 million at retail in its first year on counter and that its advertising and promotional budget is around $3 million.
Pure Pops Brush-On Color, a lineup of 10 new lip glosses, bows in October. The formula of the high-shine glosses includes hydrogenated polyisobutene, a blend of polymers intended to deliver a glass-like finish on lips; crystallina, reflective particles also intended to maximize shine, and castor oil, intended to moisturize lips. Each of the 10 shades is scented — two each with raspberry and watermelon, three with pear, and one each with blackberry, apple and mint — all retail for $16.50.
The lip glosses are expected to appeal chiefly to consumers in their teens and 20s, noted Annese. To promote the products, the company plans a national ad, breaking in October, featuring Murphy, as well as distribution of about 1 million samples. Industry sources said they estimate the lip glosses will do about $10 million at retail in their first year, and they foresee about $2 million being spent on advertising and promotion.
Pure Color LipTints are currently planned as a fall-only offering, although the product will likely join the permanent collection. The fall lineup includes four shades, each packaged in a transparent glass bottle reminiscent of an inkwell. The fluid-gel, emollient formula is intended to keep lips well moisturized, noted Carullo. Each of the shades retails for $20 and will be on counter in August.
The Prime FX Color Neutralizing Primers, $25 each, are designed to be applied before foundation, helping to correct skin tone and surface irregularities, said Carullo. “The idea of transforming skin isn’t new, but we wanted to create a line that was mistake-proof,” she said, adding that extensive research was done with a wide range of ethnic groups in the U.S., Asia and Europe.
Lauder’s proprietary Photo Optic Technology, Carullo explained, is billed as mistake-proof because it is designed to absorb skin’s light waves and optically reflect them, helping to create the illusion of perfect skin. The primers also contain gransil, a retexturizing silicone; silica beads, and clear mica, she said, adding that unlike many other products, these do not include titanium dioxide. And to further eliminate confusion, all shade names are intended to be self-explanatory: Yellow Cuts Red, Red Cuts Blue, Blue Cuts Yellow and Illuminator (the latter is designed to brighten all skin tones).
The collection also includes Prime FX Face Definer, a dual-sided product that has a dark end for contouring and a light end for highlighting, $25; Prime FX Pro-Concealment Kit, which includes two color correctors, a line diffuser and a setting powder, $25; Prime FX Lip Amplifying Base, $20, and Prime FX Makeup Refresher, $18. All will be on counter in August.
Industry sources estimate that the Prime FX lineup will do about $7 million at retail in its first year on counter and that about $650,000 will be spent on advertising and promotion.
Lauder will beef up its previously incomplete applicator line in September with the introduction of Pro Line Expert Makeup Brushes. The collection consists of 14 brushes developed under the guidance of Paul Starr, director of the Estée Lauder National Makeup Team, and his artists. The line includes brushes for the following: foundation, $30; blush, $30; powder, $40; concealer, $20; bronzer, $35; finishing, $20; eyeliner, $20; base-contour, $22; large eye shadow, $25; small eye shadow, $18.50; eye-shadow blending, $25; brow, $20; lip, $18.50, and face and body, $35. Also in the line are a custom powder puff, $12.50; a pencil sharpener, $5, and makeup brush cleanser, $15. Industry sources estimate that the makeup brush collection will do about $9 million at retail in its first year.
The majority of the new products will be available in Lauder’s full U.S. distribution of 2,200 department and specialty stores for fall, with the exception of Prime FX and the new makeup brushes, which will debut in Lauder’s specialty store distribution in the fall and in department stores in spring 2005.
— Julie Naughton