As Elisabeth Schwaiger marked 20 years as Laurèl’s head of design, she was clearly feeling nostalgic. Her fall collection referenced the brand’s Nineties heyday — specifically, the 1996 fall show in Milan, in which Christy Turlington, Amber Valletta, Stella Tennant and Diane Kruger walked. Here, Schwaiger emblazoned the models’ names on the backs of colorful cashmere sweaters.
The collection wasn’t pure retrospective. Schwaiger struck a contemporary note by subtly working the label’s signature fringe on unstructured jackets and wrap skirts. Warmth was key, with shearling teddy jackets, cashmere sweater coats, and long, jersey bouclé knit dresses.
People say this is a make or break season for Laurèl, one of Germany’s oldest fashion brands. Reports suggest it is looking to stabilize its financial footing. Perhaps this explains the fond look back, and also the small step forward.