Ireland-born Malone graduated from Central Saint Martins with a Bachelor of Arts degree in women’s wear in 2014, and that same year, nabbed LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s Grand Prix scholarship and the Deutsche Bank Award in Fashion Design.
A former design assistant for Louis Vuitton in Paris, Malone has also worked with several luxury brands in a freelance design capacity as well as creative direction.
Malone, 25, said his signature aesthetic focuses on experimental cutting, “usually incorporating graphic line and functional finishings.”
“They are usually quite single-minded, independent with a real love for clothes and the craft behind them,” said Malone of his customers. “They also have an appreciation for experimental art and design. They never try to look like anyone else, which is always refreshing in the current climate.”
Prices range from 245 pounds, or $324, for a reversible polo shirt to 2,475 pounds, or $3,273, for a custom-order twisted bustle dress. His range is sold at Selfridges, H. Lorenzo and Joyce.
Malone will showcase his collection as a part of Fashion East on Sept. 17 at 11 a.m. at the Topshop Showspace.
Paula Knorr, who launched her namesake line in 2015, graduated from Royal College of Art in London, where she studied for her master’s degree in women’s wear. She has worked for Peter Pilotto and since starting her range she has designed for the likes of Björk and Marina and the Diamonds.
While the Wiesbaden, Germany-born designer is based in London, her feminine collections are produced in Germany and she describes her woman as “someone who is relaxed, balanced in her strength and vulnerability and highly passionate.
“Youth doesn’t really interest me,” said Knorr. “I would rather design clothes for women I look up to. My aesthetic is mainly driven by the goal to create an intense and powerful picture of femininity,” she added, “so I try to design clothes that don’t overpower the wearer and work with her body’s shape and movement. I like my designs to reveal a personal and realistic idea of sexiness.”
Knorr will reveal her collection at the BFC Presentation Space on Sept. 17 from 9:30 to 11:30 a.m.
Prices range from 300 pounds, or $396, for a draped and printed jersey top to 1,500 pounds, or $1,983, for a silk velvet oversize coat or a hand embroidered dress. Bespoke pieces are available for commission on paulaknorr.de.
The designer plans to experiment with new textures and colors this season. “I will introduce different hand-painted prints and new forms of hand embroidery, said Knorr. “There are a lot of laid-back black and white prints and icy metallics, which form an interesting contrast to my bold signature red tones.”
Matty Bovan will launch his first collection under his own label as a part of Fashion East.
Born and raised in York, Bovan studied for his Bachelor of Arts and Master’s of Arts degrees at Central Saint Martins. His M.A. graduate collection, which focused on knitwear design, featured sculptural knits, textures and handmade finishings, earned him the LVMH Graduate Prize 2015. He received 10,000 euros, or $11,343, and a year’s placement as a junior designer at Louis Vuitton under Nicolas Ghesquière.
The 26-year old worked with Love magazine’s Katie Grand on research for Marc Jacobs in New York, where a collage of his illustrative works in collaboration with designer Amie Robertson was included in a segment of Marc Jacobs’ spring 2016 collection.
Bovan collaborated with Miller Harris’ new fragrance, Vetiver Insolent, where he did a live art installation, doodling onto a glass box in Covent Garden. He also designed the perfumer’s upcoming December holiday packaging and customized 60 Miller Harris perfume bottles. This year, he was featured in a film by Love magazine, titled “Love for Miller Harris.”
For Paris Couture, Bovan designed bespoke mannequins for the Miu Miu resort 2017 presentation, which featured bold, knitted and sewn, eyes, lips, and headpieces.
He teamed with the British Fashion Council and created postcards for the Port Eliot Festival in Cornwall and created artwork for the MAC Cosmetics tent that featured large-scale drawings on Perspex, mirror and plastic.
Bovan’s woman is bold, according to the designer, who describes his signature aesthetic as “twisted glamour punctuated by a riot of texture, color and energy.”
“The Matty Bovan woman knows her own style totally — she doesn’t compromise her look,” said Bovan. “Someone daring and bold.”
This season, the designer looked to building out his notion of a perfect closet. “It will be my interpretation of my dream wardrobe, bursting with color, texture and new combinations of materials incorporated in my signature knits,” he said. “An underlying Bovan mythology infuses the prints and fabrics. Experimentation with unconventional materials runs throughout the collection: plastics, Lurex, rhinestones, crochet webs are all morphed into a cacophony of garments.”
Matty Bovan will showcase his range on Sept. 17 at 11 a.m. at the Topshop Showspace.
For Katie Roberts-Wood, creative director and designer behind Roberts|Wood, fashion was not an immediate path. The Nottingham-born, Scotland-raised designer completed a medical degree at the University of Glasgow before following a creative route to study for her master’s degree in women’s wear at the Royal College of Art. Upon graduating in 2014, she was awarded the International Talent Support Collection of the Year Award and the Vogue Talent Award. She did a work placement at Erdem before launching her label last year.
Roberts-Wood sees her woman as “intelligent and imaginative with a determined femininity. She is driven, curious and creative, not someone who is influenced by trends. I see her as a rebellious introvert, expressing herself visually.”
Volume and structure are key for the designer, who enjoys experimenting with texture. “I have an instinctive fascination with form, patterns and repetition through technique,” said Roberts-Wood. “This comes through in the design aesthetic of the brand. When I’m designing, I really enjoy exploring volume and structure and creating defined silhouettes.
“Texture is very important, too, but for me, it is something that should be more than just surface decoration. I am most excited when I’m exploring texture as an integral element to form. The aesthetic is simultaneously determined and strong, while unapologetically embracing softness, texture and transparency.”
For fall, the designer will try transparency, layering, volume and texture while exploring new materials and fabrications and advancing her handmade techniques. “For me, a collection is a crystallization of the ongoing creative process captured at a specific moment in time so the final outcome of the collection is always surprising,” said Roberts-Wood. “I don’t like to set out too strictly at the beginning what the collection will be, as my approach is quite experimental and that allows me the space to grow the collection in the most instinctive and interesting way.”
Prices range from 150 pounds, or $198, for accessories to 5,000 pounds, or $6,611, for artisanal showpieces. The brand is sold at Dover Street Market, 10 Corso Como and Comme des Garçons Trading Museum.
Roberts|Wood will host a presentation on Sept. 18 from 10:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. at the BFC Presentation Space.
London-based Mimi Wade studied fashion print at Central Saint Martins before launching her label last year.
Wade honed her skills and interned at Maison Margiela, where she hand-painted garments for John Galliano’s “artisanal couture debut” for the house. She also spent three months at H&M designing prints for the young girls’ department — drawing kittens — and creating prints for Jitrois in Paris. The 24-year-old also interned at Giles doing hand embellishment on school holidays.
Known for designs that are kitschy and feminine with a low-key sense of humor, she describes her woman as “glamorous, funny and resilient.”
Prices range from 210 pounds, or $277, for a silk satin lace appliqué camisole to 2,520 pounds, or $3,333, for a hand-painted leather dress with silk lining and lace appliqué. Her collection is sold at Gago, in Aix-en-Provence, France, and her jewelry at Vicki Sarge.
For spring, the designer has experimented with textiles and printing methods. “This season, I’m introducing a lot more fabrics and and a variety of print techniques,” said Wade. “It’s not solely hand-painted leather. My research has come from so many diverse places. It’s quite different from last season, but it’s still inherently me.”