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Somsack Sikhounmuong said he wasn’t thinking about a specific person or place for his approach to Madewell’s spring collection, but rather about what the season means: “The change, the weather, the first day you walk out and the air changes and you get excited….It’s about optimism,” he said, adding that the lineup was more of an evolution than a revolution. “We looked at the classics and said, ‘Does this need reevaluating?’”

Wardrobe staples came with slight updates, like a white T-shirt reworked in lace with side-ties, denim jackets with exaggerated proportions and a pair of chambray shirts with hand-embroidered patterns done in collaboration with JM Drygoods and Mexican artisans. There was a renewed focus on jumpsuits: One pair of denim overalls was cut with a slim, borderline sexy fit, and a standout army-green jumpsuit was reworked from a vintage military flight suit. Shirtdresses, motorcycle and bomber jackets will appeal to the brand’s tomboyish customer, while a selection of high-heel leather mules kicked the femininity up a notch.

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