Following June’s debut in Florence with the Pilot episode of his new gig as creative director of Emilio Pucci, Massimo Giorgetti is gearing up to show his first main collection for the luxury Tuscan label on the runway. Giorgetti succeeds Peter Dundas, who helmed the brand for seven years. Here, Giorgetti, who launched his contemporary label MSGM in 2009, discusses his point of view on Pucci, the aesthetic he is developing and offers a preview of spring.
What’s your vision for the Emilio Pucci brand?
My Emilio Pucci is fun but also sophisticated. It might not be immediately easy to understand because, studying the heritage of the brand, I realized that Emilio Pucci was a bit crazy. His approach was superfree, he developed an out-of-the-box kind of creativity, he had no limits, but at the same time, he was always extremely sophisticated. The brand has to be fun, but not too fun — I want it to look playful, sweet, sometimes childish — and most of all, very emotional.
How did the spring collection come about?
While the Pilot was an homage to Florence, Episode 1 is an homage to the sea world, which constantly returns in Emilio Pucci’s collections. Since I was very young, for me, Pucci meant sea, beach life, Capri, Saint-Tropez. The challenge was to make this inspiration modern, so I didn’t work on the brand’s classic graphic patterns, but I focused on the more playful prints of the brands, which date back to the Fifties and Seventies when Emilio Pucci used to design more characters than abstract motifs. This is the lesser-known part of his work.
To highlight the “now factor,” which is always very important for me because I love the idea of capturing the present, I took logo-mania to the extreme with the new “Blasone” logo, which was actually designed by a 20-year-old intern on my team. This appears on the clothes, but mostly on the accessories, in combination with embroideries and rich appliqués. In addition, I used the “Emilio” logo in italics. I liked the fact that Pucci used to sign with his first name only. The “Blasone” and the “Emilio” are the symbols of the brand’s new code.
The logo also played a relevant role in the success of your MSGM brand…
Yes, of course. I really like the idea of the logo, because it doesn’t just have a commercial value, but also reflects some social habits and it’s so great when you see a logo getting more important and finding its path in the world.
What are some key things about the collection’s look and style?
Compared to the Pilot collection, which was infused with a cool mood with slouchy, baggy designs, the overall silhouette is more fitted, slimmer and shorter. There are many miniskirts and dresses embellished with a variety of appliqués and embroideries, all developed in a very modern way. There will also be long trenches, in printed versions or in solid colors. The collection will celebrate the brand’s love of prints, which are made on very fluid fabrics, such as viscose, silk and cadi. There will also be many plunging necklines — it will be more sensual than the Pilot lineup. Among the pieces I like the most, there are these tight dresses on which the collection’s key motifs — including Fifties-inspired sirens and sailors — are reproduced with macramé techniques for a tattoo effect.
In your designs, you always liked to take on the challenges of the contemporary world and experiment. Is this happening here, too?
Absolutely. I’m really into experimenting with materials. The collection will feature a lot of fabrics worked with different techniques, including fil coupé and laser-cutting. For example, one fabric has seagulls printed on silver canvas, pleated and then knotted.
What about colors?
The colors are all very Pucci: electric blue, purple, orange, bright green and yellow, among others. The real novelty is that they are not all mixed together, as in classic Pucci prints. I would say that the use of colors is more balanced.
For your debut, you chose a different location from the one the company used in past seasons.
The location is a former factory, very raw, a bit destroyed. I wanted a neutral space, where gray dominates. Since I started thinking about the brand, my idea has always been to present the collection like an explosion of colors and prints among the ruins. I wanted a kind of flat space, a little bit sad, where lights and patterns could sparkle.