LONDON — Michael Howells, the fashion, film and theater production designer whose work ranged from the dramatic runway sets for John Galliano’s Dior shows to the period backdrops for ITV’s “Victoria,” has died, according to his company Michael Howells Studio.
Howells, who wove his passion for history, travel, literature and the arts into his dramatic sets and costumes, died Wednesday of complications from a heart condition. He was 61, and is survived by his mother, a sister and a nephew.
A tall, gentle and elegant man with a razor-sharp intellect and fertile imagination, regularly collaborated with Galliano on the designer’s own label and at Dior. He also worked with Christian Lacroix and Alexander McQueen.
In 2007, Galliano told WWD that he would brief Howells — and then let him go wild. “He makes the magic happen and works out how to find a merry-go-round and transform Stade de France into a tumbledown Hamptons holiday,” said the designer. The carousel from 1900 that Howells eventually found had to be dismantled and brought to the show piece by piece, by crane.
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Galliano was referring to the October 2006 show for his label, which was inspired by “Grey Gardens.” With help from Howells, Galliano had arranged a seaside carnival atmosphere, complete with 9.5 tons of sand, 2,200 balloons, an aloof lifeguard, a stuffed ostrich sitting on a nest of Sixties’ television sets and giant fans blowing newspaper scraps at vamping models.
To mark Dior’s 60th anniversary in 2007, Galliano took over the Orangerie at Versailles, decked out the statues in surreal animal masks and invited Spanish singers and dancers to add fiesta airs to his “Bal des Artistes.” In another show, Galliano brought Brassaï’s photos to life with a cast of quirky characters, chickens, butterflies, barrels of straw, Labrador dogs and 440 pounds of potatoes — and a garrulous lady to peel them — all thanks to Howells.
Howells also worked on ad campaigns for Burberry with Mario Testino, and Dior ones with Nick Knight. He was a regular contributor to British Vogue, and worked with brands and retailers including Dover Street Market, Anya Hindmarch, Loewe and Victoria Beckham.
“We worked together on the very first DSM in September 2004 when Rei gave him the abstract theme of “Shakespeare Meets Picasso,” and Michael created such theatrical poetry that his space became the heart and soul of Dover Street,” said Adrian Joffe, president of Comme des Garçons International and chief executive officer of Dover Street Market.
“I subsequently had the honor and pleasure to work together on countless projects for DSM and CDG. I will never forget his incomparable vision, his huge talent, his brilliant sense of humor, his immeasurable kindness and, most touchingly, his immense humanity. I’m devastated. May he rest in peace.”
Stephen Jones described Howells as “a good friend, and an absolute visionary. I will never forget how he squeezed hundreds of hats with wondrous and rarefied magic into my exhibition Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones at the V&A in 2009. I will never forget his talent, hearty laugh, droll humor and innate elegance.”
Hindmarch called him “one of the most brilliant and unparalleled creatives, who had an incredible understanding and appreciation of historical design. I will never forget him ‘mossing up’ every drainpipe for my sister’s wedding when he was just starting out, and I may never forgive him for insisting I do my ‘bow’ on a bicycle for my first-ever show, which he designed. He was a gentle giant and creative genius with a wicked sense of humor. He played a big part in London’s reputation for creative originality. It’s a real loss.”
Knight wrote on Instagram, “RIP Michael, your vision has made this world more beautiful. Thank you,” accompanied by a picture of Gisele Bündchen at a Dior shoot.
Howells won and was nominated for myriad awards across fashion and film, including the inaugural Isabella Blow British Fashion Council Creator of the Year award in 2007, and the Prix d’Excellence de la Mode for his work with Galliano that same year.
His film and TV career included the sets for “Bright Young Things” starring Stephen Fry; “Shackleton,” with Charles Sturridge; “Emma” with Gwyneth Paltrow and “Nanny McPhee” with Emma Thompson.
Howells’ theater design credits include the costumes for Ed Hall’s “Chariots of Fire,” and the sets of “Julius Tomb” for Mark Baldwin Company and “Constant Speed,” celebrating Einstein’s Centenary. The latter was for the Rambert Ballet, in 2005. Howells was named associate designer at Rambert in 2009.