NEW YORK — Michael Kors is going incognito for fall.
The designer used camouflage as the primary pattern throughout his men’s collection to marry weekend wear with big city-centric classics in an offering that was heavy on Sixties influences.
“I believe in hybrids,” Kors said during a presentation in his showroom on Wednesday. “I took dressed up, polished, tailored clothes and infused them with casualwear.” Case in point was a herringbone three-button blazer in a subtle gray camo pattern and a ski jacket in the same pattern and color.
Kors said people used to have separate wardrobes for work and for weekends, but that’s no longer the case. “Tailored clothes have to go out on Friday night and casual clothes need to go to the office,” he said.
Much of the offering this season had a noticeable Sixties bent. The cashmere/flannel pants were ultra-fitted, the Chesterfield coats were shrunken and the outfits were all shown with shiny Chelsea boots in what Kors described as “a wink to Michael Caine and ‘Alfie.’”
The designer also showed his disdain for seasonality by offering up white corduroy pants and sweaters as outerwear. “I’m obsessed with the chunky, shorter cardigan,” he said. “It’s beefy but slim — it’s not your grandfather’s sweater.” He also showed overcoats in cotton with removable fur collars and hoods for a guy who changes time zones and temperatures. “Our guy is an urban guy and outerwear is his calling card,” he said.
Kors injected loungewear references in pajama tops as dress shirts, some with matching ties and one in a leopard print — his unique version of the sweater set — which felt a bit out of place.
In contrast, Kors showed a cropped and belted trench coat with zipper details that worked well with the Sixties theme without compromising the collection’s modernity.
“I want my clothes to be the clothes every guy grabs for in the morning,” Kors said. “I’m trying to take the guesswork out of it for him.”
Kors also updated his accessories offering with embossed leather briefcases and totes in a crocodile pattern with a multitude of pockets for gadgets, but without the hefty price point of true croc. “You don’t have to be an oil prince to afford it,” he said.
Affordable or not, Michael Kors continues to be a master at turning traditional men’s wear into a true lifestyle wardrobe.