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True to form, Michael Sontag’s collection remained all about construction, or the lack of it, with looks that seemed deceptively simple or incomprehensibly complicated. The sleeves on an A-line gray wool jacket created a rounded cape effect in the back, and the fabric on a peach silk midcalf dress folded over and pulled into soft folds below the bust, showing some skin at the waistline. These starburst folds also shaped gray and black wool dresses and tops, while more random folds and tucks were the guiding factor for a number of dresses, tops and skirts. Sontag demonstrated a new sense of fashionable deshabille this season, the satin gowns looking like their wearers had just rolled out of bed.

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